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You might be able to salvage this Hyd Head. After dealing with whatever is scratching the shaft you can take some "jewelers rouge" and polish the shaft back to a usable one again. You might need to use a really small ultra fine file at first to knock down the high ridges on the shaft.
Once the...
I'm gonna show you why you should clean all your parts as best you can.
This crack was not visible until I sandblasted the housing. You can plainly see it has gone clear through the housing and it's at one of the four ears which holds the bellhousing on.
This housing is "junk" .
Next up is the...
So here's the steel plates.
The first one is brand new NOS steels. The second one is slightly used and I buffed them out. The next two are really used but they could be reused if you were desperate. Which in this time means they will get used as parts are almost gone now. The last steel is...
There is one part I don't tear down unless it is broken. That is the reduction units "accumulator assembly" .
It's basically a large shock absorber and you can see if one or both of the springs are broken without tearing it down. Trust me on this, those springs are strong ! and can easily hurt...
You don't know how many times I have mentally kicked myself for not buying (at dirt cheap prices too ) these old trucks and parts. I had so many opportunities too. This one old fart (which I'm now a card carrying member) had two hundred M135's and so many transmissions and engines in cargo...
I'm going to show you a few "tricks" I was taught when I was an apprentice working on these transmissions.
The 2 pistons in the reduction unit move on 4 "rods" which lock them to the housing. When your installing them with new seals it can be really frustrating trying to align them up with...
The reason I didn't post any pictures of the rest of the tear down was because I forgot to take pictures !
I was just in auto pilot and continued tearing down the transmission. Later I realized what I did and thought about putting it back together, but it was such a mess by then I just said bag...
I found the pictures ! They ended up in another file.
So here I'm removing the "output shaft bearing retainer" . It can be a real bear to get off. After removing the 6 bolts I usually smack the bottom with a dead blow hammer then attache the crane and smacking the bottom and the output shaft...
OK, my post was cut short last night. Got that all settled.
Now I just need to remember how to properly post here again !
The first things I usually take of any transmission is the linkage. They have a tendency of getting smashed !
Once that is done it's time to remove the reduction unit...
More than likely it has dried assembly lube on it. Taking it apart and cleaning with brake clean and reassembling it with some oil will do the trick. Or you will find something horrible in there !
I finally started rebuilding my 303M transmission. First off I'll show the highlights of my teardown and some tips. Then I'll go into the actual rebuild.
I brought the unit to my crane so I could drain the transmission better. Even after draining it outside the trans will have a lot of fluid...
On the transmission shift problem, check the adjustment of your bands. They need regular adjusting to stay close to the drums (wear of friction material ) . Also check your fluid level.
Totally agree with "m-35tom" about the capability of the 3053. If you compare it to the Fuller 5 speed which has the same size input shaft and mainshaft they rate it at 860 Ib ft . Comparing it to the smaller GM SM464 transmission it has a factory rating of 465 Ib ft. So I firmly believe the...
Like most Diesel engines, it needs to be run, and run hard. This helps to "reseat" the rings on the pistons. If a Diesel is allowed to set for long periods of time the rings loosen up which will cause the engine to burn oil until the rings reseat themselves.
So take your Deuce out for a good...
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