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the manual disconnect is handy for maintenance. i havn't added one, but I will when I get my final configuration sorted out. As for backup, that is what the house battery cross tie will be for:)

ok, so you are going to keep a standalone 12v battery and back feed 12v down the wiring from the victron to keep it charged? IRT your last question: Are you keeping the remote disconnect relay next to the manual disconnect switch, you took it out of the drawing? The disconnect light in the...

correct, you can test this by connecting the diode to the LBCD pin B and ground. if the oroentation is correct, the light will light as current flows thru the diode to ground...

@Mathew OK, just realized you will need to add a diode to the circuit at the alternator light connection to force it to only be a sync/path to ground, and keep it from sending power back along that line to the indicator panel when it is acting as a source...

Thats how i read that as well, when the alt is at proper output, that terminal can provide source to energize a relay. When it drops below set voltage, it becomes a drain, deenergizing the relay and pulling current thru the fault light...

Uuuh thats not what I see… 2/3 of the indicator lights are looking for a path to ground to activate. The other 1/3 are looking for a voltage signal input to activate. The charge indicator, DS 27 is in the ground path indication group. Cb76 feeds power to the display which passes thru a...

The delco wont require a voltage sense relay, the reg controls when it or the light is activated, so a plain simple relay(low wattage/less than 1A current draw) is all that is required. Have to look at the A1/lbcd charge light circuit, to see if it is a high side or low side control... i...

Very nice!

I suspect it will run a tenth or so less than 28 at the batts(rounds to 14/28:)). Thats the beauty of remote sense, it takes the line resistance/voltage drop at the batteries when feeding current to the them, out of the equation by sensing the batt voltage on a separate line without any current...

The normal regulated voltage for 24v alts is typically ~27.5-27.7V. that works out to 13.75 per battery, which is a high float charge voltage for wet cells and a little friendlier on outgassing the batteries on vehicles that run long hours on the highway. Our 28v alts are a little hot for...

But it sounds like you are dividing your power system, one for starter, one for pdp? I dont personally see a need for this... The alt must see both 12 and 24v connections to a series battery string to regulate correctly. Beyond that you should be able to pull 2.8KW@28v. Mine does...

That sounds a little complex. Now a second set of batts isnt a bad idea especially if you are in VERY cold(below zero) temps. But that can be done with a simple BIRD relay either on a timer or a current sense control. Allows time for first batt to charge then connects second, or waits till...

Even 100A @28V is a LOT of power. 2.8KW. The issue with the 100A dual volts is that the load on the 12v side reduces its output by 1/3, to ~1950W when both sides are fully loaded. If S&S would have put in a straight 24v alt and a converter/equalizer, these trucks would have been bulletproof...

The Neihoff is a well made alt, the problem is if I loose one out on the road somewhere, repair is basically unobtanium. Or it is very expensive if I can find someone to send me one. Something like a delco or leece is way more common, replacements and parts are readily available and a fraction...

The green bracket in your earlier pics is not a pad mount as the Neihoff alts used on the LMTV are ear/pivot mount alternators... That yellow cat part is a pad mount adapter...

Yea its a gimmick… the system has a added box that monitors alternator load(LBCD) and will disconnect the batteries using that disconnect relay, from a running alternator when it is overloaded by the oversized battery bank, and puts the batteries on a “trickle charge” to save the alt from the...

Yea that does look like a different mount than the earlier version I showed. Looks like the positioning bracket is under the alt instead of on top of it…

It depends on how you care for them. I have a battery on my diesel tractor that has been in service 19 years. My longest auto battery was in a Eclipse, 15 years, my last pickup truck batt did 12…

Here are some pics from a facebook group. Basically you cut a notch in the mount to accommodate the rear mount tab. In the first kit that notch is circled in red. The other areas circled in red were done to allow the alt to roll in as far as possible. The person who did this was...

You will need to fab a mount or I have see the green mount modified to accept the tabs on a commercial alt, and a top strut added from the top of the alt to the front of the water pump/engine. I will see if I can find you a pic, I saw one just recently.