So I was just looking for a Chevy Pickup...

[USMC 00-08]

It is 1944mb's truck that I was talking about. The truck sounded great and no sign that it had a dead cylinder except I noticed it did not have the get up and go like my M135 has in high range when we drove it from Big Timber to Bozeman and back. We checked the carburetor, transmission linkage, etc.

Here is a video of it with the dead cylinder. I can't tell at all by the video. I really hope it is not the case with yours.

Here is a video of mine and at 6:19, you can see the 0-50 test.

 

[cucvmule]

Pulling and reading plugs helps with looking at condition of each cylinder.

Leakdown always helped me with ring sealing, broken rings, broken piston lands from overheating or over revving. If the air is leaking into the intake when intake valve closed, worn, bent, burned valve. Same with exhaust valve, air leaking into exhaust.

Sometimes it is as simple as a bad plug wire. I could also locate troubled cylinder by taking plug wire off each cylinder and see how much different engine runs. Sparkplugs are not what they once were either. Plug gaps, coil behavior will also give an engine fits. Mechanical or vacuum advance working, correctly.

But in the end worn ring sealing has the effect of lower horsepower. A compression test will tell that tale. Since the engine has not been sitting for 40 years I would not think that the rings are glued, carboned stiff, stuck but possible. Not knowing what prior owner has done or the condition it was in when they got it does not help either as it could have been the same before. I have bought engines that have sat for 5 years have stuck rings and after starting, running engine dripping Marvels Mystery oil down the carburetor, I have loosened rings and have after oil burns off had the engine running good.

I have also pulled pistons and put on just rings and have had good running engines also. A simple ring and bearing job could restore to like new condition. And its fun. But easy for me to say after dozens of repair and or restorations.

 

[JakeM211]

Good evening all. Time for a little update.
Got the rear lights attached and managed to at least wire the brake lights up to a switch so people have some indication of when I'm stopping though if you can't see this big, slow thing in front of you well.... Anyhow I took it to town the other day and had the inner duel that was flat fixed. The tire guys started looking things over and were blown away. Most of the tires on this thing are from 1967 and the latest was 72. 1964 is the date indicated on the distributor of its last official overhaul. They were cringing a bit because those tires are so old but at the same time were also impressed saying "You don't see modern tires holding up that well."
Needless to say, I am going to start replacing tires starting with the 2 on the front!
Also I got brake lights and blinkers working YAY.

In other news, the carb is definitely a problem if not the problem. I've been working with the fuel mix and I can get close to where it feels better and gets up to near 50 pretty well but any time I had it set so it would act better it would want to flood out at stops. Never would work right and even going down hills you could feel that the engine was holding the truck back, starving for fuel, and wouldn't go past 48 down a good grade at one point even though I've had it go up to 56 down that same hill before.
Started working with it again this morning and it went from getting a little adjustment out of it to none again just like when I bought it. Tore it all down and found that the ends of both adjusting needles had broken off and were stuck in the holes. I'm pretty sure one may have been broken when I brought it home or broke when I first started trying to turn them and the second one broke this morning and I wasn't even using a screwdriver. That might explain why I had some adjustment but not enough to get it to ever run right. Oh well, I was looking at getting a replacement carb anyway so this just cements the idea. I'll update when I get another carb.