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Newbie tips for looking at this Rig

IronhorseTX

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Pleasure to meet you all!

I'm hopefully a soon to be newbie in the MTV world as the family is looking to get a 1999 1083 for a slow and patient 4 yr overlander build. I've got some money saved up (im sure not enough) , a 48 month timeline, a barn to park the truck in, some tools (always looking for a reason to get more), and my health and life insurance is up to date. I've rebuilt some classic cars and have done some wrench twisting on the F350, but new to this large truck world. the plan was to find a solid 6x6 that could function as the base vehicle. we were looking for something drivable that needed slow care, EI: replace all the rubber, work out electrical gremlins, upgrade to AC, etc etc. - you know, the typical story.

With that as the basic layout, here's a truck that grabbed our attention: https://sanantonio.craigslist.org/hvo/d/san-antonio-stewart-stevenson-ton-6x6/7719494987.html

Whatcha think about this rig, and what are redflags I should be specifically looking for on this type of truck. Any and all advice is appreciated, again it's a pleasure to meet y'all!

**Like I said i'm new to the forum and am still in the research phase of looking up all pasts posts on this topic. :)
 

Mullaney

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Pleasure to meet you all!

I'm hopefully a soon to be newbie in the MTV world as the family is looking to get a 1999 1083 for a slow and patient 4 yr overlander build. I've got some money saved up (im sure not enough) , a 48 month timeline, a barn to park the truck in, some tools (always looking for a reason to get more), and my health and life insurance is up to date. I've rebuilt some classic cars and have done some wrench twisting on the F350, but new to this large truck world. the plan was to find a solid 6x6 that could function as the base vehicle. we were looking for something drivable that needed slow care, EI: replace all the rubber, work out electrical gremlins, upgrade to AC, etc etc. - you know, the typical story.

With that as the basic layout, here's a truck that grabbed our attention: https://sanantonio.craigslist.org/hvo/d/san-antonio-stewart-stevenson-ton-6x6/7719494987.html

Whatcha think about this rig, and what are redflags I should be specifically looking for on this type of truck. Any and all advice is appreciated, again it's a pleasure to meet y'all!

**Like I said i'm new to the forum and am still in the research phase of looking up all pasts posts on this topic. :)
.
Well, the first thing that jumps out at me is the "latches have been upgraded to SS paddle latch". Not sure where the "SS" came from. There are definitely plenty of places other than Steel Soldiers with an ss in their name - but still that jumped out at me.

The truck looks good as far as I can tell. Can't really see what sort of motor it has in it. It says cat turbo diesel. Could be a 3126 or a C7. Seems that most sellers would have made that statement if it was a C7.

I wouldn't pay any attention to the mileage on ANY military vehicle. The military operates under a different set of rules and the speedometer could have been changed at any point in the career of the truck. Granted, this one says 6000 miles - so maybe it is "right".

$24,000 is a lot of bread for a bare back truck. You might look around a little more. @fuzzytoaster sells a lot of MV's and he is in Texas. He might even be willing to weigh in on the truck you are looking at...
 

GeneralDisorder

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Price isn't bad *if that's what you want* - an A0 truck.

I imagine they mean "Stainless Steel" on the paddle handles. I'm sure the stock handles broke from corrosion, disuse, and being forced.

I would HIGHLY recommend you look at an A1 or an A1R. Quite a few people have built overland rigs from A0 trucks only to eventually meet up and drive or ride in a later truck and then immediately plan to sell their current truck and build another on an A1R platform. There are TONS of reasons. For one the C7 engine can be juiced up to 370 HP and along with ECO hubs you can get into the 10 MPG range and do 70+ MPH comfortably. As is that A0 truck will struggle to maintain 60 unless it's flat and level - it will gear limit at 62 MPH (engine redline).

As to that truck. Tires are trash and it has no spare. If you want NEW tires it's going to run you about $12,000 plus o-rings, valve stems, and mounting (if you aren't doing it yourself). Used tires are a crap shoot and PLEASE make note that if you have steer axle tire failure at speed you will most probably die or be horribly disfigured in the roll-over that is likely to occur. The military will not mount any tire over 7 years old and anything over 10 years old is ABSOLUTELY unsafe. Those Michelin (maypop) XML's are absolute trash and not even safe to drive that truck home on. So PLEASE for your safety and the safety of your family and everyone else on the road - heed this warning.

Low mileage is not necessarily a good thing. In the military this means the truck sat A LOT and LIKELY wasn't maintained since it wasn't being used. Every stich of rubber on that truck will be shot (TX). Turret cover will probably leak (minor issue), all the gaskets around the glass will be poor, fuel lines will be rotten, etc, etc. If the military didn't change those maypops then it belonged to a unit that didn't have funding. It wasn't driven (obviously) so in all likelyhood it sat around deadlined due to a problem or just sat because they rarely used it.

What is your skill level in terms of the drivetrain and chassis? Many of the owners here have prior military experience, or at least experience turning wrenches, etc. These trucks are not like civilian trucks despite sharing many mechanical parts - most shops will be unfamiliar with the FMTV ecosystem. The dual voltage electrical system, and other aspects that are only found in the military will give them pause. Tow truck drivers have to be schooled on how to even tow our trucks as most have no idea what they are doing and are highly likely to break something if not carefully advised. An engine or a transmission failure can easily cost more than the asking price of that truck - tow the truck incorrectly and you can destroy the transmission for example. More than one transmission valve body has been destroyed by flopping drivelines and that's a $5k part and usually not in stock anywhere..... the list of precautions and warnings is very long if you are taking one of these out to the back country. You have to be your own service shop and you have to have your own spares because NO ONE will be able to help you except others on this forum and the Facebook groups, etc.

Personally I wouldn't consider an A0 truck. Not with the A1's and A1R's that are coming out of service at this point. There are plenty of FMTV surplus resellers that can find the right truck for you. You need to look at all the different models and years - there are trucks out there as new as about 2011. And they may be double the price or more but that's a small percentage of your overall build when you consider tires, habitat, and all the other pieces you will need. Starting with the right platform is key. I would try to drive an A0 and then drive an A1R - ask this forum and the facebook groups for guys in your area that can show you the differences and take you for a ride.
 
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IronhorseTX

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Gents - thank you for the critical insight ~ This is incredibly helpful! @GeneralDisorder - thank you for the GREAT feedback! I did served in the Navy (Crypro guy) but never turned a wrench during service. @Mullaney - thank you for the heads-up that there are local folks to TX. I thought so but didnt want to assume.

I wasn't aware there were significate differences between an A0 and other models. Clearly I have a ways to go on proficiency with this truck. With that said, I was thinking of going to see this truck and giving it a short test- drive to start my 'hands on' knowledge. If i did purchase the truck I was thinking of driving it home, but FORGET that now based on the tire feedback! no death wish here.

What do ya'll suggest is a reasonable price range for an A1 or newer rig with solid bones? I've been looking at the Midwest Military site and some others, but those trucks seem to have an added premium cost to them... the ideal rig would be a functioning truck with generally expected warts...
 

GeneralDisorder

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There are plusses to finding an A1R "van" if you can. Either the M1079 A1R or the M1087 A1R. Having a ready to go habitat that is mil-spec and already has the torsion frame covered WILL be money and time ahead if it suits your needs. Again this increases the up-front price but when you consider that a flat-pack habitat and torsion frame are going to run you ~$40k-$60k with freight and then you get to assemble it..... not to mention it will never be as high quality or as rigid as the mil-spec riveted aluminum enclosures.

Midwest is a scalper. They put tire shine, lipstick, and used tires and ask enormous premiums on their trucks. I doubt most of their "customers" (victims) would be return or have great things to say. You can get the same truck that will have the same problems for much less from Govplanet or private party. I can put you in touch with a friend in TX that can likely find you or direct you to a proper seller.

Straight off the auction you can expect to pay $40k to $80k for an A1R van. If you take your time and watch listings on facebook, etc you can find the right truck. I saw my exact same truck (2008 M1079 A1R) listed recently for $52k and that's a steal for what you are getting. MME would be asking $90k for that truck. Cargo's go for less of course but again you are back to the $40k - $60k for a habitat.

Won't hurt to go drive it but I STRONGLY encourage you to drive an A1 or better an A1R before you make your decision. Those A0 trucks are incredibly common and plenty more will pop up in your area. That's not some kind of unicorn. You see them weekly on the Facebook groups. Don't make a hasty decision. I guarantee you will regret it when you ride in a newer truck.
 
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Guyfang

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You have gotten great advice from people who know what they are talking about. You might think about doing a lot of reading in the forum in the threads, that concern doing what you want to do. It will enlighten you, and save you some money. I am not a truck guy, but did 6 months of QA/QC on repaired vehicles here in Germany, Contractor repair. There is a lot of difference between the handling, comfort and driving a A0 and A1 or A1R. As G.D. mentioned several times, "Starting with the right platform is key. I would try to drive an A0 and then drive an A1R - ask this forum and the facebook groups for guys in your area that can show you the differences and take you for a ride."
 

Ronmar

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Yea that looks like a 290HP cat 3116. now I am a tech guy, been working radio and network comms for 40 years now, but I am an old tech guy, And I love old mechanical diesels. The problem is, is that engine tech has surely moved on and unless you understand how to work on the mechanicals, you are going to be harder and harder pressed to find someone with the knowledge to do so for you. For that single reason, General D's advice is extremely sound(well maybe a few more reasons than that:)). Unfortunately those trucks being higher(i hesitate to use the word quality) demand and newer, command far higher prices.

Beyond the HEUI engine(higher horsepower, more easily tunable, little smoother operation?), the rest of the chassis and drivetrain, structure and electrical system is VERY similar across all the trucks, they of course changed the way they did some things, but not a lot. A load control device to try and save the undersized alt from the oversized battery in the A1, then a larger alt on the A1R probably to deal with AGM batteries. 3 different style power panels across the models, but using the same type automotive relays and wiring... With the exception of integrating all the gauges into a single bussed controller and tying all the electronic modules onto a single data bus, the wiring across the 3 versions is basically the same. Having helped a few people troubleshoot issues, like a bad CTIS module causing faults on other modules, I am not sure if that idea was a blessing or a curse:)

Low mileage can be very subjective, as without a bed, you have no idea what exactly it was used for. could have been a hangar queen that ultimately had its bed scavenged, or it could have had something special mounted out back that meant it was only used for specific purposes... This one does look like it would need a LOT of work... i would say keep looking and learning...

Good luck!
 

cdub0451

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Above is sound advice from some of the most knowledgeable members on this forum.

I also noticed it's missing a gladhand on the front as well as the spare tire. I'd bet money that you'd end up selling this truck before you ever met your 48 month timeline after realizing how much time, money, and effort it would take to make sure it is a reliable RV. Keep looking, it won't be too hard to find something better IMO.
 

IronhorseTX

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THANK YOU to all!!! This is outstanding insight and so appreciated. Sounds like I'm waiting for the right A1R unless a great deal comes along for an A1. Keep you guys posted... AND if anyone has a M1087 A1R they are thinking to part with, give me a DM. :)
 

IronhorseTX

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This forum ROCKS! Thanks all the valuable input.

FYI - drove down and looked at the A0. Not the right truck for me but I’m HOOKED…. Cant wait to get one and start tearing it down. After seeing, driving, and picking through this one in person and talking to more folks smarter than me, I’m thinking a solid A1 truck would be a good start for what we want to build.

Again - thank you all for the great advice! I’ll be back to this well in the coming days for more knowledge and guidance.
 

Brennan

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This forum ROCKS! Thanks all the valuable input.

FYI - drove down and looked at the A0. Not the right truck for me but I’m HOOKED…. Cant wait to get one and start tearing it down. After seeing, driving, and picking through this one in person and talking to more folks smarter than me, I’m thinking a solid A1 truck would be a good start for what we want to build.

Again - thank you all for the great advice! I’ll be back to this well in the coming days for more knowledge and guidance.
Sent you a PM yesterday, I have a 1078A1 for sale that would be perfect for your build.
 
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