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No I haven't. Just put it back together the other day, just like it was.

It seems to me, you need to focus more on play than on your job! SAFETY FIRST Here is a story that happened yesterday. Whistler's Mother was stuck in the mud. A couple in a Jeep offered to pull me backwards. So we hooked up a 30' tow strap with about 4' of slack. When he hit the strap he moved...

Corndog thats mighty funny. Anyway, We bought 8- 20" combat wheels, $112.00 apiece, Had the new centers (1/2 inch plate) cut on a water jet table in Wichita but they forgot to countersink for lug nuts, $75.00 apiece, Still need to cut old centers out with cutting wheels. Countersink lug holes...

Its stitch welded only, I still need to weld fish plates above the spring perches. But its holding up, as I've been to KSrockspark, In Fort Scott, and made a few of the trails wider by driving over trees, I also found out that Mother is a lot louder when you knock off her smoke stack.

I'm not a leg puller.

Finally, mounted A3 tires and wheels, On Whistler's Mother, still working on building new wheels to mount 1600x20.

Now, all I need is 4-20" wheels to mount my 1600x20 XL's. I tried to rob 4 M35A3 wheels, but that was alot of wasted work. As the back spacing was to much. I need 4" back spacing on 10" wide wheels. Donations Accepted !

Not a bad fix after all. Took bolt out of hi-lo lever, dropped transfer with 3 pieces of allthread, took out 4 bolts on air cylinder removed nut on plunger and flipped it 180 degrees and reinstalled. (only engaged about 1/16" before, after the plunger flip, engaged 100%) Works like brand new...

Good lord! I wish there were more room to check the air ram, without dropping the transfer. I installed it by myself, on a rock driveway. I'm sure it would have killed an ordinary man, the first time.

Yes, both forward and reverse, sounded as if it wasn't fully engaging. Will read your message. Thanks

I was expecting someone else to do that for me. But I can do that. Thanks

Are there adjustments I need to make, or just a bad air shift transfer? No real click when I switched on but dumps air when switched off.

Installed my air shift transfer last week, hooked up the air on Monday, but not the electrical and left the switch hanging in the air and thought I would try it out in the mud. Got STUCK, Transfer would just popped when engaged. Is that because electrical wire is not hooked up?

OK we are making progress, but. In Gringeltaube's photos, Can I use the existing M35A3 wires? The ignition switch wires are numbered (74, 74A, 117, and 118 also where do they attatch to new switch? Also, any way to also remove the power switch and use its wires ( 27, 27-400, 11, 11) I start...

That other A3 had a key switch to start and then turn your lights on and go. Thats what I would like to do. Do away with the power switch and the ignition switch.

I'm hoping somebody will walk me through it. I've seen an A3 with a key switch. May have to go to Wichita and take a closer look at it.

I'm wanting to install a keyed ignition switch, and I need help. Like Type of switch, what to remove and how to wire up new switch. I've had some troubles with the ignition switch not starting the first or second times. Then today it left me stranded as truck would not start. Checked the battery...

My first Deuce is a M35A3 that I got out of Fort Carson, CO. I plan on bobbing it next with 4-link. I thought that I could use the wheels off of it with the 1600R20 tires but the back spacing it to much for the M109a3 or M35a2 (without the box)

I bought my M109A3 and 1 1/2 ton trailer at the same time. Took the trailer apart, cut the frame at 45 degrees front and back. The two hardest parts to the bob job was getting the box off of the deuce and cutting and driving the rivets off and out of the rear end. Drag the rear end out tear it...

So 5" back space front and back? With hubs flipped. I know that I'll have to do a lift after I get these tires mounted. How about trailer bed mods inside fender wells at 5" back space?