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The generators DC electrical system is 24 volts. You can get switched 24 panel light power from DS1, DS2, or DS3 terminal 1. S2 is the panel lamp power switch.

Don't cut any wires yet. You need to do some more measurements to isolate where the problem really is. Based on your reported measurements there is an issue with voltage making it from A1 to the two Find 10 terminals. What needs to be done are some continuity measurements on the wiring between...

Your DMM is actually displaying 76,300 ohms (7.6 KOhms) P5 and J5 connect together. J5 is bolted to the floor of the compartment behind the gauges. A small black connector with 4 wires.. P5 plugs into J5 behind the right access door. P5 also has 4 wires. Do you know how to decipher the -24...

The resistance should be the same 12.2 at 10 Terminal block AND across the two wires behind the gauge panel. Your 50-60 ohms indicates a poor connection between 10 and one or both of those wires. I mentioned to check, inspect, clean the P4/J4 connector pins in post #12. Did you do that?

Don't jump to that conclusion yet. What you need to do is test the resistance of the static exciter to determine if it's good or not. To do that: 1) Disconnect the leads going to A1 terminals 5 & 6. 2) Measure the resistance between the two leads removed from A1 terminals 5 & 6. It ought to be...

More info on locations to check at the gen head. Find 10 is the little terminal clock the exciter wire lugs Find 12 get hooked it. Not shown are the external exciter wires that enter the gen head hooked to Find 10. Item 10 should have 4 wires connected to it. Also check the connections of Finds...

For now don't bother with tests of K1. First thing is to get the set producing power to the outlet when the set is running and you hold S1 in START. This is when the set should be flashing the generator. In your first post you indicated you had 21 volts at A1 terminals 5 and 6. 1) Was that the...

False overloads are almost always due to corroded contacts inside the S6 and/or S8 switches. A common issue with the 802's and 803's. Countless threads on here about owners having the same issue. The current from the CT's to the Burden Resistors and the %Load meter flow through S6 & S8. If...

The high pressure line from the IP is flared. Simply tighten the nut if that's what's leaking.

To me it looks like an issue with the connection of the braided fuel return line. It's all frayed.

Speaking of the battery crossover cable be sure it's not chaffing on the engine. I found mine was chaffed about halfway through the insulation.

Correct. 1 & 2 are for the coil in the relay 3 & 4 are for the switched high current

I updated my post. The K18 for the 803 is rated at 100 amps. The relay for the 802 is rated at 40 amps. I see the relay in your pic is a SAS-4410. It's rated at 100 amps so it should be fine to use.

Looks like K18 a MEP-802A K18. It's just a 24 volt Starter Solenoid (Relay)

What's the issue with it?

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