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I only paid $800 for my M1009 lol. I replaced the throttle seals, intake gaskets, vacuum pump seal and did a bunch of cleaning. Runs like a champ and no leaks. When it comes that time I will replace it but for now it's all good.

Holy crap that's expensive

Yeah they wanted ten bucks an o ring down here. The full kit is twenty five. Thanks for the advice.

Thanks for the reply. Makes sense to me. It was a little hard starting and just started leaking really bad. Noticed it when changing the oil just wanted to stay ahead of it. The kit number is standyne 24370 complete pump kit.

Hello all quick question. My injector pump throttle shaft started leaking so I took out the intake and took off the top of the pump. When I took off the top the fuel level was way below the throttle shaft like almost empty. Is that normal? I filled it up with fuel and didn't see any other...

I need to stop cleaning things. Cleaned the radiator and it busted. Now I put in some Lucas fuel treatment and after a week the injector pump throttle shaft starts leaking. At this point I'm afraid to wash it the dirt seems to hold everything together.

Put in a New Radiator and Racor Snapp filter water separator. Hopefully I can drive it for more than a week without breaking down lol.

Also in the original post he didn't say he had already changed the card.

I wouldn't consider my way jerry rigging and guessing. First off it is not uncommon to have to cycle the key more than once on a cold day. Even with a fully functional card, wiring and plugs if it dipped below 50i had to turn the key on and off a couple times. Second three seconds is short...

Most likely not the glow plugs. Probably a weak card. You can always put in a momentary switch that sends a ground to the baby blue wire on the glow plug controller. Hold it for a few seconds to warm them up. I don't have a controller board just a button works great.

Kind of expensive but the best I've found http://www.jatonkam35s.com/CUCVM1009seatcovers.htm

Thanks

They are rims and caps off of a mid 60s Chevy truck. Had them powder coated and the caps xylan coated. Nothing will scratch or stick to them.

Yes i work at a machine shop and built one out of aluminum.

What havent i dont to it lately should be the question lol. All new wiring, gauges, paint rims and tires, brakes, suspension 12 volt conversion, you name it been done.

Since I took out the idiot lights does there need to be a resistor in line with the diode? Also should the exciter voltage be constant when running?

Hello all, I have a M1009 that the wiring harness was butchered nothing worked and had already been converted to 12 volt. Took both alternators out and rewired the passenger side one. Took the idiot lights out and ran a switched wire with diode to the exciter, new ground wire and new wires...

I converted the truck to 12 volt and removed the gauge and the light bulbs. Bypassed the relay next to the starter relay and ran 12 volt keyed to the one remaining alternator with a diode to start the charging. Much simpler set up less things to go wrong. Still got two batteries just 12 volts...

Yeah i used 2 bottles of that stuff on the fuse box and the connecting block. Solved tons of problems. Jason