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Update: The GEN 1 light does not light up, so hopefully it's just a bulb. I need to figure out what size as I didn't have any tools to take apart my dash at the time I checked.
Also, for the large electrical connector at the firewall, how do you pull that thing off? I'd like to clean that...
Bit of an update. I tested the voltage of the alternators. On the passenger side, I put the positive to the red wire and ground to the alternator case, and got 26.7V. I did the same on the driver side and got only 11.9V. So it looks like I need to replace the drives side.
This past weekend I hooked up a 12V winch to just the front battery. I left the truck running and after pulling one small shrub out of the ground, the winch stopped winding. I turn the truck off and unplugged the winch wondering if something had gone wrong with it. Then I went to restart the...
I had a chance to dive into this a little more. After pulling the air filter and letting it run to work up pressure, I noticed the valley was wet. It took some digging, but it turned out it wasn't coolant. One of my fuel lines was loose coming out of the pump. Luckily it was one I could...
I started looking around and nothing really sticks out. I'm going to spray some de-greaser back there and hose it down. Then I'll dry everything off real good and let it sit in the driveway and warm up to see if I can track it down better.
Only when the truck is hot, I'll get a puddle of coolant dripping off the bellhousing. I can't tell where it's coming from, so I'd like some suggestions on where to look. This engine has less than 2000 miles on a top end rebuild with new head gaskets so I'm grasping at straws here.
I've had trouble starting my 1008 the last few times and I'm trying to figure out what's going on. Today I tested both batteries after it wouldn't start and the back battery was 12.5 and the front 11.9. The way these batteries are set up, shouldn't they both read the same? Also, thinking...
I ordered the pump from Amazon, and a new regulator. I don't think the valve is the problem, but I've also got a vacuum tester on the way. It might be a bit overkill, but I'd rather do it all at once than have to spend multiple weekends tinkering at it.
The biggest question, do I have enough room to pull the vacuum pump straight out with the engine in the truck, or do I have to pull the manifold/fuel lines or anything else? Or do I need to pull the whole engine out of the engine bay?
I had to send my truck to the shop when the transmission decided not to go into drive/reverse. They dropped the pan and and found out pretty quickly with all the metal that I needed a rebuild. I also had them do a few other small fixes that I didn't want to deal with myself and that completely...
I had a chance to look at it again today. Whatever I put in a few weeks ago is now on the floor. I put another gallon in and let it run for awhile to warm up. It looks like the leak is somewhere around the vacuum modulator or above it where the oil lines to the radiator are. Either way, when...
It's still leaking after adding more fluid, so a seal must have either dried out or given out. I'm not outfitted to drop a transmission and replace seals, so this will likely go in to a professional. For the time being I'm going to add some stop leak/seal conditioner and hope is slows the...
It's a little puzzling at the moment. I put almost a gallon of fluid in and the line on the dipstick barely moved. If I try to drive it cold, it doesn't want to grab reverse, but if I let it warm up and idle for 15 minutes, it will grab and go in reverse.
The reverse/fluid issue makes sense. If too much of my fluid leaked out, when I tried reverse the first time and felt it surging, that was probably the reverse slipping in an out. And the bubbles I saw on the stick were likely because it was stirring too much air in the system. However, this...
I took the M1008 out for the first time in a few months and noticed a decent puddle under the transmission. Actually, it was under the skid plate under the transfer case, but I think that's just where it was collecting. I put a pint of fluid in and drove it out the garage and things were OK...
I took the cluster out, cleaned the circuits with contact cleaner, and replaced all the bulbs. I decided to replace them all seeing as I had the thing out. Put it all back together, and it works like a champ.
Now I just need to order a new 24v voltmeter and I should be set.
I've checked all the fuses, and they're all good. I checked the lightbulb for the underdash light and the filament is fine, so it must not be getting power from the dimmer controller. I still get my headlights to turn on though. I'll make a point to take the switch out and clean all the...
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