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This topic comes up regularly.
This is a diesel engine, this is not a gasoline engine.
This engine likes to run hot. If you run it too cold, which is mostly below about 190 degrees, the engine will not have as complete of combustion as it should, and you will cause issues if it stays that way...
From appearances, it's specifically for the H1 so should work properly on the HMMWV. The only difference I've seen between some H1 and HMMWV wheels is some H1 wheels are hub centric, rather than lug centric, and use flange nuts rather than tapered nuts to hold it to the hub.
Have you actually tested the glow plugs yet, or are you just going to throw money at it and hope you get lucky?
Until you put a multimeter on the glow plugs and check resistance on each of them, and verified that you are getting 24V to each glow plug connection, you are potentially just...
Do a google search for H1 wheels, and there are standard rims mixed in with the 2 piece for the search results
Example
https://secoparts.net/products/hmmwv-humvee-wheel-non-ctis-16-5-one-piece-hummer-h1-6002010
All it takes is one failed glow plug to cause smoke. Several of the glow plugs are difficult to access, so not everyone bothers to replace them if the truck is still starting. I think for a while there I was starting my truck on only 2 or 3 good glow plugs in freezing conditions.
You need to check resistance on every plug, then also check to make sure every harness connector is showing 24V. It's not unknown for wires to look good on the outside but have high resistance or damage internally.
The fact that it goes away when you increase the throttle or after it warms...
You won't get smoke from fuel starvation.
Some smoke is common during heavy acceleration, but if it's excessive could be either an air intake restriction (plugged filter or maybe the mushroom cap on the intake is shoved down too far)
Check with a multimeter to make sure you are getting...
Yes, they are different part numbers
Only difference is the shift points. The turbo version has a little higher shift points, to deal with the slightly lower diff gearing and increased truck weight.
also, check out this thread...
Clutched pulley should spin freely in one direction, and solidly turn the generator shaft in the other. Basically designed to the rotor can keep spinning when the RPMs drop or stop, without putting stress on the belt.
Or it may have a pulley without a clutch, in which case it will be solid to...
Here is the manufacturer troubleshooting guide to verify the issue is the regulator so you aren't just throwing money at it
https://www.ceniehoff.com/Documents/Ctrl_Hyperlink/TG17_uid252021123202.pdf
My regulator worked intermittently. Sometimes it would work on startup, sometimes it wouldn't. Sometimes it stopped working while I was driving.
Replaced it and 4 years later no issues like that.
Unless you have a bad electrical connection somewhere, then it's almost certainly a bad regulator.
I tried to put some tires from my HMMWV on an M116A2 and the tire is pressed up against the parking brake cable. Most that I've read about seem to add a 2" wheel spacer to solve this issue.
The door panel in the picture is part of the SECM (Shop Equipment Contact Maintenance) body, as it has the lip on the top that goes behind the roller door. If it had a hazmat placard on it it would go to the BEOD (Body, Explosive Ordnance Disposal). Might be a couple others it would go to as...
Even if it's just cosmetic right now, there might be hidden damage that only shows up after it's installed, and most places refuse to take any type of return on used electrical components.
For the cost of the alternator, I'd spend the extra time and effort to get one that didn't get the crap...
I ended up not doing anything to it yet.
Nobody around here has a shelter to use with it that I could find for what I would consider a reasonable price, and I've been spending my limited funds on other projects that will actually get used more than once or twice a year.
Glad to hear that it...
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