Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.
Come on, nothing like a crazy road trip to try her out! I had assembled my m35a2c and 2 weeks later, drove it to the Carolinas to pick up some 395s. WOW, what a trip THAT was.
I haven't, but I'd like to(get to Raush creek).
You know there is an "in" and an "out" for the gaskets to be installed? It looks like yours might be backward. I thought the diamond in the corner faces out.
P.S. They are not that great of a design either way.
We don't have too many rust repair threads that are in depth. Please take lots of pics of the steps you take to cut out the rot and put in the patches.
Well, I didn't say it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! (although Ron might give you a run for your money)
Just kidding. Yes, grounds will cause all kinds of goofy issues.
CLR will work, but its not cheap! Do a search for it here, there is a thread where someone found a generic version for clr. Also, it has been posted that not having it(the rad.) painted will help with heat transfer.
You just let it sit and idle? I wouldn't think that would get all the air out. Take it for a drive. If it didn't overheat before, it shouldn't now. Next step would be to have the rad. rodded or boiled out.
I would get rid of the flame pre-heater and by-pass the FDC before doing anything else. I do agree, if you don't know the last time the filters were changed, to change them. I run hydraulic oil sometimes too and it does sometimes take extra time to start up. I've had to do the ether too on...
Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!