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no neeed to disconnect any wiring, just start the engine and lift the actuator arm all the way up and you should have 3800 rpm

We used a Ford steering wheel puller, for removal and installation.

The magnet should not pop off when the start switch is in the run position. Because you have a low oil pressure fault there is no power to the actuator. What should happen is as you crank the engine by placing the start switch to the start position the oil press will start to build up and when...

Down to the last thread no further? The bottom of the spherical nut has to be on the last thread at the end of the linkage rod.

I don't think your shut down issue is related to the governor adjustments. I think it's all mechanical, If you're shut down and the governor and actuator are not powered how could it be a gain or stability adjustment. It's either in the actuator magnet or in the engine governor. There is a...

If you have two sets, one has output one doesn't, what I would do is remove the actuator from one with no output and install in the one that is running bad. See if that helps get at least one up and running good, then mess with the other issues on the other set. One connector and two bolts and...

It's not how solid it feels when you hit it, does it shut down after you hit it. Hit it start it up and see if it shuts down. You may need a magnet adjustment though.

The magnet may be mal adjusted, if the magnet is to strong then it will keep pulling in. The 5/16 gap setting is for a properly adjusted magnet strength that should be factory set and never adjusted. I believe the magnet pull off weight should be about 5Lbs. With the actuator rod out of the...

Voltage out of the PMA is directly proportional to engine speed and the inverter needs a certain amount of PMA voltage to turn on and stay on. So if your engine is going to slow or slows down to much then the inverter will shut off. As for a light out on the fault panel, press and hold the fault...

Cord, Lift up on the actuator arm and push in the pin as if you were going to rope start the set Now, make a fist and hit the top of the actuator lever (as if you were pounding on a desk) Pull up slightly on the actuator arm so the pin pops back out, now start your set and see if it shuts...

100 ohms is what you should read right at the terminals on the meter. With wires disconnected If you're not getting that reading then you probably have a bad meter. Meter drawing number 98-19746 note 3 says 100 ohms max. Is your actuator closing when you shut it the set down, then when the...

I told you they retired. 98-19541 is the government drawing number and 29410 is the vendor (TRC) part number. I don't know why they don't recognize the numbers.

If and when you call TRC don't ask for Marge or Ray they both have retired. The GFCI on the 3 kW is a 10 amp. On one of the 3 kW's I rebuilt I just put a regular GFCI outlet from Home Depot on it. How is the main contactor issue you were having (not latching)?

Sounds like you either have a winding out on the PMA feeding the inverter or blown fuses on the inverter input. There are fuses inside the inverter they look like resistors but are marked F1, F2 etc. You can check the input to the inverter very easily by disconnecting the P15 and P16 connectors...

K15 and FU1 are AC so I doubt that has anything to do with your DC problem. K15 is the starter cut out relay when there is AC voltage from the inverter this relay energizes and prevents you from re-engaging the starter. FU1 is the AC to the battery charger, there is a separate winding in the PMA...

Remember, you can't measure across the meter, you have to take one of the wires off the watt meter and put your multi meter in series with that wire and the watt meter. You can't set full load speed when you are only loading to about half load. You have to get 3 kW worth of load and load from...

If you're loading it from the outlet, the contactor does not remove load from the outlet. The outlet is before the load contactor, the load contactor only removes load from the split load terminals. If your voltage from the PMA, A,B,C on the controller are out of whack, that means the speed is...

Diesel, Is it running good now or still acting up? For the one you just got, if the PMA is partially disassembled that may be a job to get back together. Is the rotor out of the stator?

There is nothing that supersedes the TM Like I said before, I wrote the set up. Fermont was bought by a large Italian company and one of their engineers tried to re-write the procedure. There is such subtle word changes that it doesn't matter, it was just for them to say they did something. I...

Diesel, What supplier was that? That's an awful lot for that controller. I'm glad you got a copy of the TM, I was wrong on the gap, I said 1/4 inch when in fact it is 5/16 (been a while) I've seen that condition before where the actuator catches, pops off, and then catches again, usually it is...