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Outstanding! I'm glad to see the M1028 (got it right this time) going down the road again. Did you end up switching it over to 12V?

Hey Txs, whats the status on the M1008?

Thanks TXS. We'll be fine! Not the first hurricane we've rode out. Heck its the 3rd this year that has touched us. Man are we lucky, some people go through an entire lifetime and never experience a hurricane.

Its a good page. I've saved it before but lost it. I've saved it again. Let me know if I can help. Looks like I'll be out of commission again for a while, another hurricane is bearing down on my back yard. I'll be checking in when possible.

Just rereading the stuff. You don't really need a gear reduction starter, just a 12V starter. So whatever you end up with only needs to be 12V. Thats probably your only cost and maybe some wire and a battery cable.

Well, your gear reduction starter would need to be reworked to do the 12V conversion. Basically the swap requires moving some wires and cables and disconnecting the wires to one of the alternators. Go to www.roscommonequipmentcenter.com/news_notes/nn10.pdf Your net investment will be changing...

Hmm, tough call. In theory you cold get by for a while utilizing the 24V alt and eminating the 12V but you will get into an imbalance situation with the batteries. If its all still original the glow plugs, which are 12V, will still work since it uses the resistors on the firewall to step down...

Might be a problem here. If'n he built you a 24v alt for the passenger side and you're hooking it up with the factory wiring you will be creating a 36volt system. The alts are wired in series so if you add the 12 from thr drivers side to the 24 of the pass side, you got 36 man! Has this...

I concur with pvkj454. If you've had work done on the pass side alternator and not the drivers side, swap em! You can always unhook all the wiring and check for continuity from that lug to the case. If there is continuity, thats your problem. The passenger side is the one that gets 12V added to...