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Oh, take note of the spot of white paint on the cable at the spool in the second and fourth pic. I did that so I know where to stop spooling in since I'm usually doing this crap by myself. Once I see that white spot I know I can hook the cable clevis end into one of my rear shackles to keep it...

ALL, sorry for the delay in getting the pics...life happens now and then. Anyway, here are several pics of the longer stops I made for my levelwind set up. 1" aluminum round stock, 1-3/4" long with the back drilled and tapped for 3/8-16. They stop the trolley about a cable thickness away...

My apologies...no pic today. Hopefully I'll get to farm tomorrow. My stops were yellow zinc coated factory units and the level wind had never, EVER been used. Still had perfect paint on all rollers and bridge roller. The stops on mine were shorter that what it sounds like you guys are...

They are NOT, repeat NOT...LONG ENOUGH. Trust me, I use my winches...if you want the level wind to work perfectly, don't assume the short factory stop is correct. I'm going up to the farm tonight and will get the picture of my longer stops. I also made them out of 1" aluminum round stock with a...

I'll try to get a picture of the extended stops I made up for my level wind set up tonight. I actually have my stops set so that the trolly stops about 3/4" (iirc) from where the cable would be winding up against the side of the spool. So the cable drives the cable over to the spool that last...

So trying to move a stuck 55,000lb machine with cable rated for a little over 40,000lbs with a 20,000lb winch? <--the snapped cable and driveshaft aren't Murphy's Law in affect this time. PEOPLE- I know I'll get some flak about this but the factory level wind set up for the 20,000lb Garwoods...