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I wouldn't be too afraid. After rebuilding 2 of these, my sense is it's more a machine of brute force than of precision. If you ding up one of the keys a little, grind it smooth again and it'll be fine. From working with much smaller shaft keys, I found that tapping from different directions...

That's not going to work, you won't be able to get that big main gear off the shaft from that end. See post #63 in this thread for a tip from G-man. I can't be much help, mine were finger-loose on both winches I did.

There's no reason you should be removing the worm gear in order to replace that seal. In fact you have to have the drum off long before you even get to that step, if you are following the TM. The seal on that end is in the drum itself, not the end housing.

As much as they rub and contact each other, I doubt it. But keeping a running winch properly lubed should prevent future rust.

Yeah the bearings are the same size. The worm gear shaft will push the bearing out. I could never get it to move with a mallet or hammer (with wood in between). The only thing that worked for me was an arbor press. I guess you saw that if you read the thread, though.

The new shaft gave me an improvement of 5 mm clearance and it was enough! Thank you again gringeltaube for your patience and precision. I owe you a few beers!

Holy cow, amazing. Thank you again Mr. G. (and it looks like a 1mm difference at the base of the keyway, even less at the lip!) I will install the new shaft as soon as time allows and compare.

Your drum lock poppet could be rounded off or sheared--did you take it apart? That's the only way to know for sure.

Received the new shaft; looks the same. Wrapped in paper and made pencil rubbings of the 2 keyways: they line up identically. Now I'm stumped again.

A replacement shaft is coming from White Owl. If it is no different George said I can return it.

This flange inside the drum is a bit bent up on the edge. This could be a contributing factor but not the whole problem I would think...

No, I never suspected anything was wrong until I was function-testing the assembled winch by hand. BUT...now I'm kinda stumped again. I got the shaft out and it does not appear to be twisted. See pic attached, seems to be about the right amount of offset you were describing--not quite 180°...

Yep we seem to be on the right track here. G-man, my measurements relative to these photos were 13mm and 37mm. Thanks again.

Thanks guys. When I got to work today I checked my other winch (the one I have for sale) and it does not have this problem so that tells me the problem isn't my re-assembly! I have sent a message to George at White Owl to see if he has this part NOS. I see in that other thread that Memphis had...

I have had this winch back together for a while now and I was getting ready to put it on the truck...but I'm noticing a problem. It seems that the sliding clutch is engaged even when the lever is in the "out" position. I can get it to disengage by pulling the lever FURTHER "out," (past the...

I'll be glad to send you a couple o-rings no chg. pm me your address. My clutch keys tapped out easily. I'm reusing them.

No, the ones I had are kinda mangled up. I want to get brand new ones, that's why I was checking. Thank you!

Wow, someone has switched mine over to shorter ones, then--they measure .60 inches! But I'll go ahead and order 5/8 with new star washers--thanks!

OK legit new question: what size are the 6 bolts that hold the brake box cover on? It's looking to me like they are 5/16-18 thread with 1/2" length but according to my calipers, that's not EXACTLY right. I'm figuring only G-man can answer this one. Otherwise I'll wait until I'm going to Lowes...

Big mistake today: rebuilding my 2nd winch I cross-threaded the brake adj. bolt (going into a brand-new brake band). The threads are screwed up now. I don't see any 3/8"-24 cage nuts on McMaster-Carr. Even Google doesn't find them. So I'm guessing I need to either get another brake band, use...