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Hats off bro, you did an awesome job!

Some shift knob info for what I went with.

Good progress, thanks for the pics. Wow, that jack shaft is way shorter on a 250 setup vs the 8.3. Mine is way longer and an actual shaft with yoke end, will post a pic later. On your morph-joint, I wonder if that could simply be made by buying a joint of each type and then just swapping out...

On the spline slip yoke, check this catalog just as an example under HD dept: https://www.macpek.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/Spicer-slip-yokes.pdf They offer them in different lengths, which I think is the easy way to do this. I think about $100 new?

Yes, I believe so. I’ll confirm on mine tomorrow. , but that is what this diagram shows, and it covers both the range selector and gear splitter.

My fly housing is driver side starter. May be OK.

They sell longer spline yokes. Here are pics of the air lines I did on mine, sorry they are late. Let me know if you need more info on which goes where. Air fitting at the rear is truck air in. Goes directly to filter/regulator, then the push-to-connect fittings are for the shifter lines...

Totally forgot. Will do tomorrow morning. I just realized the flywheel housing has to use the starter in the high mount position because of the frame rail clearance due to the engine shifted over. Dang it. I’ll have to change what I have, and it does not look like the 8.3L uses a 1” thick...

Sure, will do it Monday.

Should be 6 buttons. I did mine with all new stuff from Eaton. Important they are exactly perpendicular to the flywheel surface so the clutch releases well and the disc can float and move and release tension off the flywheel side plate. I aligned my buttons with an end wrench and used a...

Found the missing one huh? I can look back at the pics of mine if you need any reference info.

Cool. Exciting to see it come together. Are you doing the dual fuel line mod while you have access to the back of the head? Yes, my 5.25” was from the back of the block, but that is on an 8.3L based engine. My stock military flywheel housing on my 8.3L for mate to the Allison is deeper, but...

Here is some info on mine if you are considering a hydraulic clutch. My flywheel housing depth measures 5.25” deep. The SAE #2 clutch housing is for the hydraulic throwout actuator. One large window on the side with 2 bolts is access for clutch adjustment, the other on the bottom with 4 bolts...

My RTO-12513 has 2 PTO access covers. One is a 6 bolt off the side, and the other is an 8 bolt off the bottom. The bottom one looks like it would be a much more expensive unit plus hang down. If I could not get a side one to mount, I would switch to belt driven, which is kind of what I really...

Awesome write up! Keep the pics and info flowing! I’m particularly interested in the rear engine mounts to flywheel housing if you change housings, as well as U joint at trans choice, trans length, front prop shaft clearance, and trans PTO clearance once installed.

That is called a rear PTO, or RPTO. Common usually on concrete mixer trucks, where they have no firewall due to rear mounted and backward facing engine.

Yep. I’m trying not to use one of those as it will cause the shifter to have more travel than without.