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You don't want a jumper, that would be a dead short. Just remove the flyback diode. If you want a flyback diode buy one with a higher reverse voltage rating. It's most likely a 1N4000 series. 1N4001 has the lowest voltage rating. 1N4007 is the highest. Make sure what you get is higher than what...

It's called a flyback diode. When the coil in the relay is de-energized it creates a reverse voltage spike which causes an arc across the contacts that control the relay. The flyback diode shorts the reverse voltage to prolong the life of the contact With that said, all of these flyback diodes...

FKM is the generic name for Viton.

You found the cause of your problem but for everybody else, use Viton tubing from an industrial supply house. The original tubing was Viton but most of the aftermarket stuff isn't. The aftermarket tubing will be hard and full of cracks after a year or two of daily driving. With good quality...

If it uses the same principle behind MLS gaskets, Viton rubber on steel shim, they'll do fine. If I knew about them previously I would use them.

Interesting, I saw your picture and assumed it was just new bolts. I've never seen an axle flange gasket. As long as it's metal backed it should be fine.

I do recommend using anaerobic gasket maker on the axle flange. It doesn't seep like silicone does.

One thing you'll find working on these hybrid 12/24 volt trucks is that the relays with 12v control coils switching 24v loads are often designed with 12v only service in mind. The relays are short lived in 24v service due to the larger arc during break. Why the relay failed at exactly that...

As long as the heat can convect up to the cylinder head, it only needs to get a few cylinders warm to get a start. My 6.2 would start fine at 80 degrees without glow plugs. You'll get a lot of smoke until the other cylinders start firing. This may not be the best for your engine but should be ok...