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Update: with the engine brake off the ABS light came on today. Will dig deeper.

It’s a 2002 M1083A1. Put the 15/40 right back in.

Changed the transmission oil today. I saw a little milky condensation on the dipstick so I moved the transmission service up on the priority list. Be forewarned: this is a very messy job - no two ways about it. Be sure you check the oil filter cover and transmission mating surfaces and get...

First; understand that I’m a complete newbie with FMTV’s. I was telling @Ronmar that since I got the truck the ABS light would periodically come on but if I shut the truck down for a few minutes and started back up it would go off. I figured I had a fault in the ABS somewhere For whatever...

Getting even more intimate with learning about the air systems and 7 pin trailer intervehicular cable connector. Transmission service is next.

I don’t know if you pieced this all together. Did the pump come with the “kit” or did you buy it separate? You have the wiring?

Did you use a floor Jack or transmission Jack to get that rascal up to the frame rail? The winch cable can be routed / rerouted out the front or back, as needed?

Swapped out all 7 Michelins for Goodyears. Pulled the radio rack and installed the 3rd seat. Put the pintle hook extension kit in - 98% done; just need to fab a relocation bracket for the rear two axle vent tube T. Got the remaining 2 driveshafts checked, repaired, new u-joints, and...

Except for the 1st photo, my fingernail didn’t catch on to anything. I’ll check again in the AM but Photo 2 was more of a shiny versus dull appearance. I didn’t see any burnishing despite that grease smelling toasted.

Jacked up both rear axles & removed the rear driveshaft. Those caps played stubborn but finally came out. I’ve smelt burnt trans fluid, burnt differential gear oil, and burnt wheel bearing grease but today is the first time in more than 61 years on this planet that I ever smelt burnt u-joint...

Received the Chelsea PTO wiring kit. Their PTO switch does not match up size wise with the option panel blank slots. I eye-balled the switch and the blank slot cover and it looked like it would work - so I took a blank slot cover and trimmed the ID to slid over the switch. TA-da.

Removed some of the PLGR kit. Installed the back-up alarm kit. Painted & mounted the Options Panel. Checked the hub oil condition & levels. Ordered a U-joint because the intermediate shaft has a broken grease zerk & I could not get it extracted. Installed two 8” convex mirrors - one in...

Changed oil in the two rear differentials. Replaced the broken idiot string on the NATO slave cable connector; I used camo 550 cord. Let me tell you - those little eyelet cord anchors are tough as hardened nails to spread open to remove the old cord and put the new one in. Bought a new...

Very nice!

What years? Winches? How close are the Serial / Registration #’s ? TomTime & I have 1083A1’s and our serial / registration #’s are 2 digits apart.

Full tank of diesel = STRUCK IT RICH! Woo-hoo.

I’m afraid that may be the case. 🤷🏻🤷🏻🤷🏻

Bought this gem from a GP/IP auction. Cheapest I’ve seen was on eBay for $799. I paid about $545 with shipping. Ya just never know when you’re gonna need one!

Changed to engine oil & filter. I must have looked at the wrong TM. This thing guzzled 27 quarts! I was expected 21 to 22. Had to run to the store to buy 6 more quarts. Did a (somewhat) more thorough undercarriage & general inspection. Found a bad exhaust clamp & ordered on from eBay...

Same for the headlight bezel.