Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.
Stock starter relay in a non stock position. Would make it easy to unplug if it failed. It is normally attached to the same bracket as the voltmeter and right alternator relays. You posted a picture of this bracket earlier.
The Dog head mod is an alternative starter relay, the original has a plug/socket which is the same shape/ configuration as pictured in the diagram. The relay is a rectangular box stamped from sheet metal. The Dog head relay is cylindrical metal. The relay "converts" the 12 volt ignition...
Yes, the alternator with the red ring on the outer terminal is isolated negative.
The other alternator has this terminal without any isolation so the case is now negative, making it a negative ground which is the driver side. The large black wire connecting to this terminal has its other end...
Backwards. Driver side is front battery.
Right side alternator is back battery. The red wire with white stripe goes to the negative terminal on the alternator, this is the one flush on the back end of the alternator.
Among my many neuroses is counting off the pre glow time and subjective analysis of said time with ambient temperature. Then timing the cold start high idle, just a function check.
When I liberated this M1031 SECM, the PTO generator wiring had significant errors, the first being the...
The stock system engages when key is on, a yellow wait light illuminates. At summer ambient temperature, this takes 5 to 8 seconds. When it is 9°F, this is 40 seconds or more. Voice of experience here, that is the coldest I have experienced and in central Texas too..
After the light goes...
It works, parts are available and wiring diagrams (corrected) are available. Yes, the new card is expensive but all other parts are inexpensive.
While a push button is dead simple, the only real benefit would be a plausible theft deterrent.
I would recommend looking over the existing glow...
Aside from aging glow plugs and relay, the system in my 1031 has been faultless and perfectly reliable. Far better than the three iterations used on civy models.
Alternators look good, did they load test? The isolated negative one I bought had a test report..not that I believe it..hopefully it has enough output to get me home in the event of a field swap.
There are two large orange and one thin orange wires, all three go to the glow plug solenoid output. One fat wire for each bank of 4 and the thin wire goes to the glow plug controller under the dash.
I can post pictures if needed.
Oh, double up on protection for your eyes when drilling starter bolts. I keep a set of magnets to capture the mess at the drill.
Cool LED light from multiple angles helps greatly
Large orange are glow plug outputs, should be spliced to 4 green on each bank and these go to glow plugs. Test with multimeter.
Pink is power to injection pump energized to run solenoid. Should be a tan connector on the end.
Very good intro, best of luck with the starter bolt. Remember the bracket on the non drive side, this supports the weight and prevents broken bolts.
I usually start at 3/16" and have a few cobalt HSS bits for that. Then a sharp 1/4" left hand will grab easily.
Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!