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The air will accumulate at the top of the master cylinder. As the master cylinder pressurizes all the air will rise to the top. You won't push air through the fluid already there!
Taking the power bleeder out of the equasion, there is almost no difference between the deuce and any other drum brake vehicle except the additional axle and the air pack which has a bleeder valve. Every wheel cylinder has a bleeder valve, if you are bleeding vehicles by cracking open lines...
It will have some fluid still in the line and nipple. Once unscrewed from the master cylinder cap, let it drip for a bit. For the most part, you will always have a little dead air space in the reservoir of the master, enough so that most of these drippings will stay in there.
Edit; let me back...
Hopefully you bought a tank that has a pressure relief. If so, release the pressure, close the ball valve and remove. A small amount will spill when you remove the lines but no biggy. The key is to de-pressurize the tank first.
According to the military, it's the only way it should be done!
See http://old.steelsoldiers.com/index.php?module=pagesetter&type=file&func=get&tid=1&fid=file&pid=67
I have the extra cap and it works great. If I had one cap I would switch that steel vent line with a section of braided and a union or even the air line quick coupler so the vent line is easily removed and the bleeder attached.
Gary, the I've never looked for the MC caps at a supplier. I had several I've kept from MC replacements. I might have one or two more on these trucks in the yard. I did just buy some pressure gauges on Ebay for $3.99 ea. Once I have one installed I'll report back. Bjorn, I can tell you it works...
Gang, here are 2 pics of my bleeder. You can see that the tank line has a ball valve and a quick coupler from an air line. It then connects to a second hose that has a tee and a 6" nipple that screws into the MC cap. There's a plug in the top of the tee but eventually it will have a pressure...
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