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I have front and rear curtains...they fit perfect and look good but I really like being able to see through the canvas when backing the truck... heres a thought...do canvas tops hold up better when air can pass through (no curtains) or with curtains installed??? without the curtains the top...

and canvas trimmed down with new grommets installed....fits good Ohh...and its canvas for a m35.... cutting 2 strips out of it at the original seems with a shortening of 28 inches in total gives the fit shown(compare to all the excess in the earlier pics) the bows were custom made outa steel...

and canvas.... needs a lot of fitting...currently at the sail shop being shortened and have a few extra grommets installed

ok....but you can't tell anyone.... the paint is outdoor Matt latex.... the colors were matched to the krylon rattle can camo colors - green and tan that way little pieces and touch ups can be performed with easily purchased spray cans the colors aren't a perfect match to the true British...

And paint! british color scheme from base suffield in Alberta

Shifting back n forth between hilly and level scares the **** outa me....even though I know it's possible... to clarify -wait until tranny shifts into third- pull shifter back to hilly (2nd) to hold in third? i would really prefer it shifted properly without risking a screwed up shift from...

One thing leads to another.... now that the truck stops I went for a road speed spin around the block the tranny shifts nice and smooth BUT...it seems to shift from 3rd to fourth wayyyy too early leaving the truck lugging in fourth gear ( it does accelerate but slowly) Also...it won't 'kick...

i think it's the volume that's most important....the master cylinder alone creates lots of pressure but ya need to " pump up the volume" to get any braking effect

So... bypassing the air pack kinda works the master creates enough pressure to check for leaks but ya sure can't drive it that way...it requires 5 to 7 full pumps to build pressure that will actually slow the truck amazingly the air pack seems to function fine...although getting the brakes...

And.... the outer dimension of the cylinders is identical but...I have noticed the 'piston pins' are different lengths. the us pins are around 1/2 inch longer...do the longer pins need to used with the wider bore cylinders??

Stupid brakes... I don't really need them, right? i bypassed the the air pack and started bleeding and looking around...a couple days later the entire front axle is ripped apart front left had US wheel cylinders ( rotted and seized) front right had had new canadian wheel cylinders(completely...

Holy-! thanks gentleman-that is exactly what I needed-the photos and manual reprint will make this far easier... it's amazing how accessible things are without the cargo bed-but I ain't popping that off

Ok-brakes... brakes brakes brakes... I have read here it is possible to bypass the air pack and still have functioning brakes. I want to do this so I can test the system from the master to the wheel cylinders and fix replace what needs fixin and replacin while the air pack gets a rebuild-n...

Truck runs without coughing and sputtering under acceleration...stuck a 3 psi electric pump 12 volt into the system along with a filter...

Ok-the fuel pump is officially the nastiest piece of crapola on this truck.... nothing is is coming apart...aftermarket...with a regulator...and maybe a pressure gauge here we come can anyone explain why there appears to be 2vent lines on the top of the tank? one definitely ties in with the...

:popcorn: Omg Dan, that was a funny &:)-$ read i had my M135 delivered ($$$) to my doorstep so I have no 'let's drive it home stories'....but I did crash into the ditch 50 feet from my driveway last weekend

Thanks guys... I have heard they are pretty simple and usually just require maint to keep working forever... has anyone used a adjustable racing pump( simply to get fuel pressure and volume correct)?

the truck?.... Or the fuel pump? the truck is running good enough that I drove it into the ditch in front of my house and had to get the neighbour to pull it out with a bulldozer........

Anyone got any pointers on the fuel pump? its time to get rid of the 50cal ammo can sitting next to the battery gravity feeding the carb the fuel was disconnected electrically when I got the truck so I figure something is up with it

Brake fluid....? What is/was the most likely fluid used in a Canadian M135?...what should I use?...Were these trucks ever converted to silicone fluid?...If I have no idea about anything whats best to start with?....can I damage anything using the wrong stuff?