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37" Hummer Tires & Wheels on M1008

M1075

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I made the swap over the Hummer radials and 12-bolt wheels this weekend. I elected to keep the wheels stock (not recenter) and used 2" spacers on the hubs to counter the extreme backspacing. A little fender trim with the plasma and I was good to go! The tires help out greatly on the gearing to reduce RPMs at road speed. Unfortunately, my camera died before I could get a pic of the finished product. I'll get that soon and add to the post.
 

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M1075

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Re: RE: 37" Hummer Tires & Wheels on M1008

maddawg308 said:
Lookin good so far. Gotta side pic of the adapters? Just curious how the holes line up.
Sorry, but I don't have any pics from that angle. Which holes are you referring to? The adapters are bolted on using the existing lugs and then the tire is bolted to the lugs of the adapter.
 

superburban

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That is what I was planning!! Where did you pick up your spacers and how much wampum did they cost you?

PS thats going to be one good looking CUCV!
 

M1075

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I'll have to dig to find the vendor, but I just ordered them through the internet. I believe they were about $125/pr. You can also get them on ebay. Mine were 2", 8x6.5 bolt pattern with 9/16" studs. There are some cheaper ones with metric studs.
 

BKinzey

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Where'd ya get the tires & rims? How much $$$ :D

Backspacing on H1 rims is 7" (I've also read 7.25").

Spacers are nice. Re-centering is better. Of course the last option I found out after :roll: I bought my axles. Get dually axles. Stock H1's will look great on them. :D :D
 

M1075

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I bought them from GL at Texarkana. I think there was 12 in the lot for $125. I choose to go with the spacers so that all my rims would be compatible and I wouldn't have to recenter 12 wheels. Dually hubs would work in the front too, but what about the back? If I get a flat or need to replace I tire, I replace the tire & wheel. $10 bucks each. I'll try to get some finished pics up soon. Sorry for the delay.
 

AJMBLAZER

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The funny part is how huge these trucks are compared to most other vehicles...but then you get into a deuce and a half and a 1 ton isn't that big...

How much of a trim was that? Couple inches? Have any rubbing while turning?
 

Recovry4x4

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So what your telling me is all i need to do is to get HMMWV wheels, spacers and a set of 37x12.50s and do a bit of triming and the 37's will fit a CUCV with no lift?
In summary, that is correct. The pics are showing a truck with stock springs. The trimming might be measured a little more than a bit though.
 

lolercaust

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The only problem i can forsee is the gap created between the inner and outer fenders. I can imagine for the creative you can cut the outers then roll the inners in to match the "new" outers. I had at one point a 2000 F150 with eight inchs of lift and 37x12.50s it was a cool truck but by no means a CUCV. The reson im interensted in this is i love 37 guard dog MT's from tread wright and i DONT want another lifted truck there more trouble then there worth, and to help out my CUCV with its low gearing. I allso think it could be done like your puting on bushwacker open fenders, cut slits in the fender and tap them down but cuting would probably work out the best. Besides you cant say that a CUCV with 37's and no lift doesnt look sexy. But i think i might just go ahead and get a small lift maybe two inchs or a small body lift to help fitment. What do you folks think?
 

tvguy

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In summary, that is correct. The pics are showing a truck with stock springs. The trimming might be measured a little more than a bit though.
This has not been my experience. My truck is lifted 5" and I still had to do quite a bit of fender trimming on the front for the tires to clear, particularly with the front suspension under full articulation. Maybe the stock springs just don't flex as much and that keeps them out of the fenders?

DSC01609.jpg
 
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Sharecropper

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The only problem i can forsee is the gap created between the inner and outer fenders.

The way I modified my fenders - I used a string and Majik Marker. I taped one end of the string in the center of the locking hub, and wrapped the other end around the marker at the prescribed cut-point. I then simply drew a radius mark from the bottom of the fender around the radius line till it exited the edge of the fender higher up. I then used a jig saw with a long, fine-cutting metal blade and cut the line, cutting both the inner fender and the outer fender at the same time. I then sanded all edges smooth and sprayed all raw metal with Metal-Prep, which is a phosphorus acid product which stops rust instantly. After this dried I sprayed red oxide primer on all surfaces. Then I got some fast-curing body seam filler from the body-shop supply house and filled in the space between the inner and outer fenders. This stuff cannot be sanded after cured so you have to smooth it out when it is installed. I filled the void at least 2 inches deep to provide a strong, long-lasting seal. After the seam filler cured, I simply painted the exterior green, and later I taped off the green and shot black onto the inner fender surface. It looks almost factory-done.

Hope this helps.

Thanks for the compliment. My truck indeed turns heads, and it is especially fun to watch the teenagers with baby trucks pointing at me when I come through town.
 

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