PEASHOOTER's M109A3 CAMPER Build Thread

This is truly awesome! Thanks for this thread. So many great ideas for my 109! I will be reading over and over again Great looking truck!

...I just read... all of it... HOLY COW.. Impressive. I pm'ed you about the genny holder and fuel holder.

Those are some of the best ideas I have seen yet!

Hey peashooter,

Can you add your truck info to the USAF Deuce Registry?

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?79736-Late-Model-USAF-M35A2C-Registry

Amazing!

Once I finally get my deuce I'll have to come check yours out in person. I will bring a note book and pencil and try and get as much info as I can from you.

Once again, a truly amazing build!

Amazing build! Your documentation is the best part, since your part numbers and pictures help out the rest of us for our trucks.

Merc1973 said:

Amazing build! Your documentation is the best part, since your part numbers and pictures help out the rest of us for our trucks.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the compliments, I spent too much time looking into finding some of the "right" parts to use so hopefully they will help someone else out and save them the time. I sure liked it when people posted part numbers of items I wanted to copy and use (such as the muffler, coolant filter, etc)

scottjhl - Sorry I havent gotten more pics and dimensions posted yet of the genny tray and fuel can rack in post 26 like I said I would. I think I have some pictures and a couple drawings even that I will get up..... some are on my phone, some on my home computer, and some at work

Subscribed! Awesome build!!! Been watching it for a while... really nice work!

scottjhl said:

...I just read... all of it... HOLY COW.. Impressive. I pm'ed you about the genny holder and fuel holder.

Those are some of the best ideas I have seen yet!

Click to expand...

Here is what I have for drawings/dimensions for the bumper mods in post 26 & 27.

GENERATOR TRAY: I had a sheet metal shop form this for me then I added a few parts to it, mounted it and cut the extra "wedge" shape off the top lip where it mounts to the bumper so it lines up with the angle of the bumper. There are some pictures of how I mocked it up to see what dimensions I should go with. Basically I just wanted to get everything low enough so the generator and fuel cans didnt block the turn signals, but I also wanted everything high enough so the truck could still approach the same inclines as it could without the add ons.

FUEL CAN RACK: I'll get some more pictures and dimensions on this and post them here when I can. I made this more on the fly with the scrap material I had found. Attached are all I currently have for pictures with some dimensions attached.

Very nice build, peashooter. Looking forward to the next round of posts.

Just read this whole thread. Excellent work!

peashooter said:

Spin on filters:


COOLANT FILTER

Last summer I decided to replace the belts, hoses, thermostat, and flush/fill the coolant. While I had it all drained I decided to add a coolant filter set up. I purchased the filter housing and filter from FLEET FILTER which had great prices and I think it was probably around $35 total. I just replaced the filter this year and cut it open. It was doing its job! Even though I flushed the truck and radiator many times over a few days before refilling with coolant, the filter had what looked like mud the color of gravel on it.

Click to expand...

I am looking to duplicate your coolant filter setup. Actually, I am duplicating all of your filter setups, but the rest I can see.

Can you tell me what size/length hose that is to the coolant filter? Also, do you have ball valves on both in the in and out to the filter, so that you can completely isolate it? Or is there a ball valve to isolate the heater core instead?

skinnyR1 said:

I am looking to duplicate your coolant filter setup. Actually, I am duplicating all of your filter setups, but the rest I can see.

Can you tell me what size/length hose that is to the coolant filter? Also, do you have ball valves on both in the in and out to the filter, so that you can completely isolate it? Or is there a ball valve to isolate the heater core instead?

Click to expand...

For the heater hose & Coolant filter hose, I bought the "GATES GREEN STRIPE" hose from Oriley auto parts. I'm pretty sure it was 5/8"ID if I remember right. They sell it by the foot, it wasnt super cheap but I wanted some good hose so I wouldnt have to do it again. I honestly cant remember how much hose I got for the coolant filter, but looking back through the pictures I think that 5' would be plenty. If you have a heater that needs new hose, its the same size and probably needs 8-10' for that.

The heater has the pet-cock valves for inlet and outlet that are mounted to the engine and water pump. I did add ball valves to the coolant setup(inlet and outlet both) for 3 reasons.
-1. would make less mess when I wanted to change the coolant filter (shut the valves)
-2. Since I also have a heater plumbed in parallel with this, I shut the heater pet-cocks in the summer so more fluid goes through the filter, and if I were to drive this in the winter I could close (full or partially) the filter valve so more hot fluid goes to the heater core.
-3. just in case... better to do it now than later when I'd have to catch & reuse the coolant that would spill or buy more of it which gets pricey (I cant remember how many gallons of coolant the deuce holds but its a lot.)

As always, thank you!

ill some it up in 1 word AMAZING, great job

Hey Peashooter you are the only guy that has a build that . I can Deal with you are like will do it one time and one time only I am a master wireman I I need to talk to you almost got screwerd out of ten thousand.500 call me @337-477-1067

just added a M109 a3 to my 2 M 561 gama goats and an M 38 with a 416 trailer, hope it comes out even half as nice as yours , that the best lookin 109 I seen in ages! Now I need to figure out how to get it from Waldorf MD to Landaff NEw HAmpshire

I have a question about your rear door lock; I looked at the product on the site but it doesn't show both sides of the lock there. If I'm seeing it correctly on your truck, you drilled through the door and the lock has a keyed side, that I can see in the picture with the little girl on the steps, and the handle on the inside which I can clearly see in your interior pictures, is that right? The website doesn't show a round lock, it's more squareish, so I am wondering if you ordered another piece to adapt that or if the picture just isn't quite right on the product site. And then you mounted the inside catch piece to the bar for the door mechanism so that when the door handle is closed, the lock aligns inside? Is that correct? Thanks for clarifying. I'm going to have to explain to an installer so I want to make sure I order the right stuff and know what i'm talking about. This is the best solution for the rear door I've seen so far, thanks.

Hi JohnnAmber, Yes the lock from mcmaster can be ordered 2 ways. The one I got is a Yale brand one from Mcmaster.com part number 8047A47. It isnt shown in their picture but it comes with a round lock that goes on the opposite side of the door as the deadbolt. Here are some more pictures of the setup.

Thanks! Great solution.

Any pictures of the map seat restraint harnesses installed?