THIS CLUTCH TOO!!!!!UPDATE see last post

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well I bolted on the new pressure plate from Saturn surplus and guess what looks like the fingers are too low of the new one as well here's some pics will any one that can go out and have a look at the clutch on there deuce's you should be able to feel how low the fingers are
by reaching through the inspection cover thanks all

RE: THIS CLUTCH TOO!!!!!

Jed, are you sure you have the right disc and are you sure it's facing the correct way? This situation is very odd.

RE: THIS CLUTCH TOO!!!!!

Definately don't look right. Kenny's right about making sure the pressure plate and clutch disc are right for your application. The disc looks like it's in faced the right way based on the fact that the spring pack side should be towards the pressure plate. You should be able to tell at assembly 'cause most often I don't think the disc will even come close to touching the flywheel when it's stacked wrong because the spring pack and splined sleeve hit the flywheel.
I've seen flywheels that have a raised ring where the pressure plate bolts are and that set-up gives a recess that the disc and pressure plate set into. Those pressure plates won't work on a standard flat-faced flywheel because without the recess the stack height is all wrong.
A tip when working on these things; before removing the pressure plate, place some small wooden blocks under the pressure plate cover to keep the release fingers depressed. Makes disassembly and reassembly a lot simpler.

Here is a picture from an earlier post by bjorn on his clutch job, you can see with the wood blocks in place his fingers are in the same place yours are without blocks, I would guess something is wrong. I just got one from Saturn and it had the wood blocks in it. Have not taken mine apart yet.

Jed, it almost looks like the disk is too thick.

Re: RE: THIS CLUTCH TOO!!!!!

Jones said:

I've seen flywheels that have a raised ring where the pressure plate bolts are.....

Click to expand...

Multifuel flywheels, too????

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I have to go with a disc that is too thick.

Where did you get the disc? How does it compare to an original?

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I have a place in town that stocks the military clutch and disk. Think it was like 175 bucks or something like that. I did not have to use the blocks or anything, just bolted her in.

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Gringeltaube, Yep the multifuelers too.
There were several different clutch set-ups used including a multi-disc affair. Leads to all sorts of mix and match possibilities... and associated headaches.
Westech, The idea behind using the wood blocks, as shown in the above picture taken at my place while Bjorn and I were replacing the rear main seal, is so that the possibility of getting the pressure plate offset slightly while drawing it down with the mounting bolts is minimized. It also keeps strain off of the bolt threads by not relying on them to pull the assembly together against the pressure plate springs.
I picked up the trick from the TM steps for clutch disc/pressure plate R and R along with a couple more good ideas; making a clutch alignment tool, and an 8" long stud that screwed into the crank flange in place of one of the flywheel bolts. This allows you to slide the flywheel out onto the stud so you don't end up with it in your lap while trying to wrestle it out of the bellhousing. You can also hang the flywheel on it and it makes reassembly a snap.
Mechanic's tip #43 REMEMBER; the flywheels are indexed and will only go on one way and still have all the bolt holes line up right. (One bolt hole is 3/16" offset so that the engine stays in harmonic balance. At 85# plus, you don't want to be lifting that sucker in and out of the truck too many times).

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When we pulled my clutch, I went with a ‘take out’ 4 arm pressure plate from Murray for a very sweet price. He threw in a take out clutch (because he didn’t have any new in stock), but I felt it was a tad too worn. When I did get the new one, well I think the clutch pads are overly thin…the take out wasn’t too bad after all. When we put the 4 leg one back in, the legs were definitely off the clutch more than that. I have read that the four arm ones are old style and the three arm ones are new style. Guess I’m just sticking what has worked since 1970…4 arm pressure plates, 5 puck discs, GL-1 and stock filter canisters with NAPA filters.
Although I may not have the skill of the motor poll GI’s, I think I do have more care for my beast than the average motor pool wrench jockey.
I can tell you without a doubt that pulling and installing the flywheel (had to get it turned), as well as the pressure plate and clutch were a breeze compared to putting the transmission back in. We used a combination of a transmission jack (wouldn’t go high enough, of course)and the coveted 4X4 through the window and chain fall (my dang window hasp broke when I took the 4X4 out!) Just need to get the clutch pedal rehooked up and fill it with GL-1 and I hope to be ready to go!
Good luck with your project; if I was closer I’d come over and at least kibitz, if not really doing something useful. I was rather happy with John Murray. Although I haven’t dealt with too many of the surplus dealers, he seemed to be honest and straight forward. He delivered what he promised and gave me something that was certainly equivalent (in my opinion) to the rebuilt pressure plate (since he did not have one) at a much cheaper price.

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Whats the story with those metal retainers? Are they a substitue for the wood blocks? Should or could they come out? I didn't see them in M38inmaine's pictures.

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That is what I was just looking at. I bet the metal wire things take the place of the blocks. Take them out and I bet everything will be just right. Anyone else have an opinion on this?Unlike some of you I take care of my stuff and have not fried a clutch yet.

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Those metal wire things are springs to keep the clutch fingers from drifting back and riding on the clutch release bearing. If memory serves me; there are also some loose rollers towards the opposite ends of the fingers where they contact the pressure plate that can become dislodged if the springs aren't there, and effectively jam the pressure plate so it won't release.
You can see the tips of the springs poking through the pressure plate housing in the picture of Bjorn's clutch. The section that runs across the clutch finger is hidden by the blocks. DO NOT remove them, they're there for a reason.
The wood blocks are just a dissassembly/assembly aid. They're removed after the pressure plate bolts have been torqued down.
Maybe Bjorn will chime in and give a blow by blow description of how we did the job.

RE: Re: RE: THIS CLUTCH TOO!!!!!

ok lets start with the disc as far as I know thats the right disc it looks right number is right etc as to the thickness
it too looks right does any one have a disc they can gauge for thickness and like I said if any one can go and try
to feel how low the fingers are by reaching through the inspection cover I'd owe ya one.

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Jed, want to come up and look at one of mine? Would that help? I've been following this but I don't see what your seeing!

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Eric I might.
I think I'm going to buy a new star disc and pressure plate from fred at adirondack dodge parts and and see if that works.

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the bottom line here is that you have the wrong parts, or at least one wrong part.

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I have two near new take out pressure plates and discs. Both pressure plates are 4 finger and both discs are 5 point "star" discs. The disk pucks are not fully glazed over from use, so they are near original thickness. The puck thickness across the disc is roughly 3/8" (.375"), I read on another post the minimum acceptable thickness is .350" so there is not a lot of wear allowed in the pucks.

It is probably a cost prohibitive offer, but if all else fails and you want to pay the round trip freight I can send you a PP & disc to do a fit test.

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The reason for the low wear allowance is the clutches are metalic.They don't wear down nearly as fast as standard car/truck clutchs.bad part is they don't behave like one either.Kinda grabby if your not used to them.

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RDD w/ADD, have you considered the 6.2/700R4 swap yet?