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The best receiver hitch for M1028

Drock

Drock

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I've bin over the archives and didn't find a definite answer to this. I plan on going to 33" tall tires as well as the spare tire. Can the spare tire holder hold a 33" tire? And or will the hitch also be in the way? Also I noticed there are hitches for "normal step bumpers" And "deep step bumpers". which one would fit the cleanest?
 
Warthog

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Why not look at the threads at the bottom of the page. They have part numbers and pictures.
 
Drock

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Reciever hitch.jpg Well my hitch showed up this morning so I spent the day installing it. WOW what ah pain in the X!!. 31 bolts, 6 cuts, 2 cutoff wheels, and 4 hours labor. the spare Bareilly fits. So it looks like ah 33" tire will need major surgery to make fit , but I think I could make it happen. I'd like to thank Warthog for pointing me in the right direction ,and to Unaffiliated for posting a Really good how to thread. I couldn't have done it without you guys.
 
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Drock

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Well I found the right one at Etrailer.com $219.00, but ended up buying it off Ebay for $153.00 (free shipping). It's a (B&W) Part # HDRH25122. 1600 lbs tongue weight, 16000 lbs towing. And yeah I had to do the same cuts just like Unaffiliated did.
 
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Drock

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That's the same one. Etrailer has there own part numbers. So you have to go to the manufacturer to get the real numbers so you can go shopping. The ends flip flop to fit later model trucks as well as ours. The pic your looking at is how they would be for a newer truck. For ours the tabs face in word.
 
acesneights1

acesneights1

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you were able to install that without hacking up the rear tie downs ? I had to remove mine and hack up the bumper mounts.
 
Drock

Drock

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Well not "HACK" the tie downs, but I had to make about ah 6" X 1/2" relief cut to the bottom to clear the hitch it's self. Then remove the spacer towards the back. Then on about an 1-1/2" relief at the bumper bracket to also clear the hitch it's self. If you go to the bottom of this page and click on (Receiver hitch install) you'll see exactly what I had to do
 
Drock

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skysix

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I used a Reese Towpower 51016, no cutouts needed. Although I did do a small reduction in the depth of the hitch side panel to increase clearance. I also moved the hitch crossbar slightly forward so the 1/2" pin holes lined up with the pintle base holes so I could tie together with a 9/16" grade 8 u-bolt and two thick SAE grade 8 washers (drilled the pintle base/bumper holes out to 5/8"). Also swapped all hardware to 1/2" grade 8 fine thread with conelock nuts. I did need two sets of the square 1/4" plate washers and used the second set of thick grade 8 dished washers as well (two per bolt) to clear the military bumper reinforcement mounting bolts.

So now, as the unmodified CUCV hitch/bumper and the Reese hitch are solidly tied together (1/2" thick spacer between hitch tube and bumper made from 4 unused 1"x2"x1/4" hitch washers), I can do 15,0000 max pintle tow, 800# max tongue/pintle wt, 8000# max 2" ball tow and 1300#/ 13,100# with a weight distributing hitch.

The U-bolt was custom made by Kevin from autospringcorp.com in Boise Idaho for $13.85 shipped on a 2 day turnaround. 208-362-0431 (4.25" deep. 2.75" inside width - the one shown was a 5" bolt I cut down to 4.25")
 

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Recovry4x4

Recovry4x4

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A thought on the 33" spare. The frame rails are 34" outside to outside so with the flanges, a true 33" tire isn't going to fit.
 
Drock

Drock

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skysix said:
I used a Reese Towpower 51016, no cutouts needed. Although I did do a small reduction in the depth of the hitch side panel to increase clearance. I also moved the hitch crossbar slightly forward so the 1/2" pin holes lined up with the pintle base holes so I could tie together with a 9/16" grade 8 u-bolt and two thick SAE grade 8 washers (drilled the pintle base/bumper holes out to 5/8"). Also swapped all hardware to 1/2" grade 8 fine thread with conelock nuts. I did need two sets of the square 1/4" plate washers and used the second set of thick grade 8 dished washers as well (two per bolt) to clear the military bumper reinforcement mounting bolts.

So now, as the unmodified CUCV hitch/bumper and the Reese hitch are solidly tied together (1/2" thick spacer between hitch tube and bumper made from 4 unused 1"x2"x1/4" hitch washers), I can do 15,0000 max pintle tow, 800# max tongue/pintle wt, 8000# max 2" ball tow and 1300#/ 13,100# with a weight distributing hitch.

The U-bolt was custom made by Kevin from autospringcorp.com in Boise Idaho for $13.85 shipped on a 2 day turnaround. 208-362-0431 (4.25" deep. 2.75" inside width - the one shown was a 5" bolt I cut down to 4.25")
Click to expand...
AHH I see, this would be much easier. However I do see some pros and cons between the two. Yours is rated for 1300LBS, BEFORE you added all those spacers:whistle:, and the U-bolt is just ,well sketchy looking.;-) That being said it will probably outlast the truck and us! The one I used was AH LOT, more work but it's rated at 16000LBS, doesn't need ah U-bolt, and has usable chain hook holes. So I guess it comes down to ah decision of how much work you feel like doing and/or how much abuse your hitch will need to take.2cents
 
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