M1102 GL purchase - can it be towed home without a riser hitch?

Sorry if the thread title is confusing. I'm bidding on an GL M1102 and was wondering if, assuming I win the bid, I could tow it home with a standard 2" hitch pintle hook? Or do I absolutely need one with a riser?

I'd be pulling it with a Tacoma on a 2-3" lift and 33" tires. I would just like to get it home (about 120 miles) and then figure out the permanent towing configuration later.

Your Tacoma can handle it. Get yourself a set of the magnetic trailer lights, in case the M1102's lights aren't working, and watch your speeds. When you're doing your once over of the trailer, make sure all the lug nuts are tight and bring a spare if you can. Good luck and be safe.
I attached a pic I found on the net of a M1102 behind a Tacoma. Not sure how close it is to your rig but it's a good reference point to start from.

I don't have an 1102, but the TM makes it look like the lunette ring is about 24" off the ground. Good luck.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/upload/trailer/TM9-2330-392-14P.pdf

Here are some pictures of it behind my half ton truck with a Northern tools riser and hitch. I now run it level on my 2500 truck. I love these trailers for hauling small stuff.

They are light compared to the M105s and are easy to tow if empty.

Oh, and there are two steel square tube pieces that come out the back on each side that you can put your magnetic lights onto. The rest of the trailer is aluminum. I use the tailgate latches to hold the trailer light cables by clamping the cable under them. I have bounced a light off the back of one of my trailers before so this prevents the cable from pulling them off.

You will notice that the flatbed is actually a Spirit trailer, and does not have the upgrades of the last trailer picture. (upgrades were a different surge brake, they drilled out 6 rivets and replaced with bolts, and the lunette was upgraded. The tags should be on the front of the trailer bed if they made the upgrades.)

Bring some zip ties to secure the lights as the magnetic bases won't hold on the aluminum body.

Yes you can tow with your set up. Will be tail end high, but not a problem. I have towed several trailers that way. Good idea to get the magnetic tow light set. I tie my lights on with nylon cord, but zip ties work too.

mkcoen said:

Bring some zip ties to secure the lights as the magnetic bases won't hold on the aluminum body.

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sorry, edited my last post to add more info about mounting as you were typing yours. Using the steel brackets on the back works well, but you have to secure your cable or it will pull them off in my experience.

Heck, I pulled one off post with a M880. Worked fine. I used my 2500 for delivery and yes, used a set of magnetic lights. worked just fine.

Mike929 said:

sorry, edited my last post to add more info about mounting as you were typing yours. Using the steel brackets on the back works well, but you have to secure your cable or it will pull them off in my experience.

Click to expand...

Yeh I use the brackets too but didn't want to go too in depth for someone just doing a quick pick up.

That's pretty much how I towed my 1101 home from Ft Sill. Lower or remove the tailgate. Bring some safety chain extenders just in case. Bring an air tank and gauge. The tires on mine were both under 10psi. If you refer to the TM, you can have preconfigured a flat 4 light connector(or whatever your truck uses) for the lights and hook into the connection box on the trailer. If yours has the newer LED running lights, those normally work fine on 12V. You will need to swap 12V bulbs in the taillights. I did have a set of magnetic lights, zip ties and duck tape, just in case.

The front landing leg will NOT crank down enough to hitch up the trailer to a normal height PU hitch. Have an alternate method of lowering the trailer. In my case, the nice GL lady driving the fork lift gently lowered it onto the hook.

Agree with most of above. The pintle riser is a good investment. Although you will probably not need the surge brakes to activate with empty trailer, they will work better if trailer is level. Safety chain extenders may be necessary. I have posted before that you can use the hoisting shackles if the nuts are not spot welded on. Safety wire the hooks of safety chains. These tow great!

I've towed 3 M1102's home from Atlanta, Ga & FT Stewart in Georgia with a Toyota 4wd Tacoma with no problems. I did have a 5" riser on the factory hitch, but that was all. The rest of the posters have covered all the points except that the rear stablizer bars are steel & they will let a magnetic light stick to them, but still use a few tiedowns to lock them in place. Drop the rear tailgate for better rearward visibility & tow away. Don't forget to check your axels during the first part of the trip make sure your brakes are NOT dragging @ all! Have a safe trip!

I forgot about the jack not coming down low enough to hook up on my old truck. I used a hi-lift jack to assist with lowering and raising it to park it. (My new truck is much taller, so I don't have those issues anymore.)

Good catch DeadParrot!

Thanks fellas, wish me luck!