20" beadlock runflat inserts

I have seen similar inserts used on HMMWVs but does anyone know much about the 20" ones? What vehicle(s) are they used on? How does one insert them into a tire?

I found some information on http://www.forceprotection.net/ but was hoping for some first hand knowledge.

http://www.forceprotection.net/pdf/fpmediakit.pdf

Hmmm, those look fun to wrestle. No first-hand knowledge here though. I looked on the Hutchinson Website, but they didn't list any specs of anything.

mounting beadlocks

Get them as warm as possible. Sit them out in the sun on a hot day or in front of a heater inside.
Get a honking great cargo strap. Get Arnold's big brother to start cranking that strap right around the opposite two edges of the beadlock.
When the beadlock is almost touching in the center, or when Arnie's brother passes out, open the tire. Best done with a tire spreader. If you have no tire spreader, use a forklift or a tractor. Forgot to mention, warm tires spread easier too. Failing to have either machine, use 4x4's and high school physics.
Drop the beadlock in and turn it.
SLOWLY undo the cargo strap.
Ta-da!
You're done.
-Sarge

RE: mounting beadlocks

I forgot to answer the other questions...
We used those in our 5-tons fitted with super singles.
They are beadlocks and also runflats.
Unless you do a lot of off-roading, or you actually use your CTIS, don't bother putting these in. They are very good when you get down to 5psi, otherwise you are wasting a lot of time. They are runflats, but you cannot run 50mph down the highway with a flat, only 10 mph off-road. Enough info already?
-Sarge

RE: mounting beadlocks

Thanks Sarge, that is good info. Are these runflats "authorized" for use on the 5 tons or is that a "field mod"? Did you notice any substantial negative impacts (brakes, acceleration, suspension)? Does the Army typically use the method you outlined, or is a specialized machine sometimes available?

Beadlock/runflats

M1075, yes they were authorized in our 5-tons. Otherwise we would not have used them. (Grin) Only in the super singles, though. They do not work in split rims, only two piece bolt-togethers.
I never noticed any difference in brakes, acceleration or suspension. I only knew that they were installed when a mechanic was changing a flat and he would scream "Oh sh*t!, beadlocks!" They are a huge pain in the *ss even with the correct tools.
When we were in garrison (on-base) we had all of the correct tools, tire sreaders (the manual ones look like a huge old fashioned fireplace tongs) and squishers (weird shop press looking tool). The hydraulic spreader was much smaller and hooked up to an air supply. The air ran the hydraulic pump, controlled by a foot switch. Civilian truck tire shops use this piece of equipment also, good units cost between one and two thousand bucks.
When we were in the field, we could only take X amount of equipment with us. This included all basic tools and all safety equipment, such as a tire cage.
The method I described is the field method, assuming that guys on Steel Soldiers would probably not own the 'tongs' or the 'squisher'. Sorry, my memory does not contain the correct military names of the equipment. We always had copious amounts of 4x4's and plywood in the field and it would amaze you what we could build. A tire spreader can be made from two 4x4's and a 10 inch bolt. Grind the ends of the 4x4's into a hook shape. A cargo strap replaces the squisher. Although there are a dozen decent methods of airing up a tire safely, a tire cage was mandated and was also the safest method.
Typically, we operated without the beadlock/runflats except in the sand box. We were not authorized to 'mix and match' wheels on the 5-tons at that time. I'm not talking about 800's, I'm talking about 900's. I'm sure that somewhere in Steel Soldiers the topic of super singles sliding on wet pavement has already been covered, so I'll not bore you with the dangers. Having said that, there is always some guy who knows better than the US Army, "Oh, my super singles never slide" or "Oh, my CUCV gets 80mpg". Best of luck to ya!
I will say it again, if you don't really need them, don't use them. They are great in a situation where you plan to run extremely low psi for a huge footprint.
In the desert, you can literally drive hundreds of miles on a flat with them. Your tire will look like it went through a meat grinder, but hey, you got home.
-Sarge

RE: Beadlock/runflats

Thanks much Sarge. I never knew the Army used these runflats in 5 tons. I thought only the beadlock style inserts were used. I will have to get some and just try it. I think I "need" them.

The "Billy Bunter Squash and Strap" method works well for the flat style beadlocks too. Take one of those cam lock cargo straps and put it around the beadlock, sit on it and bounce, tightening the strap each time you compress it, until it looks like a bow. (It helps if your buddy makes lurid comments while your doing it). Then prop the tire open with two bits of 2x4 and slide the beadlock inside, release the strap carefully and you're done. Sarge and I changed all six 14.00s on my M813 in one morning using this method.
Taking the beadlocks out of the old tire was done by putting a chain around the beadlock, looping it on the tractor forklift, picking up the tire and bouncing it up and down until they popped out. Not elegant, but it works.

I can put a normal beadlock insert into a tire in quick fashion using a pry bar. It is the runflat insert that scares me. They are 34" wide which makes a tight squeeze into a 20" hole!

The beadlock wasn't much of a problem when I did my tires on the M925a1. I used a rope to take them out as well as putting them in by myself.........I can't imagine doing that with a runflat.........wooooow.....?!?!?

I sure would like to see how that is done.

C'dub

I have been struggling with Michelin 12.00R20 XML's mounted on Stryker beadlocks with runflats in them. I took a chain saw to three of them. Wrestled, cussed, and used 4x4 physics (Jeep and nylon strap) and still have at least six more to do. Maybe two ratchet straps next. One goes crooked. Completely covered with black gook head to foot from the lubricant inside. Want to save some of the runflats and use the rims to make a hard rubber tired miniature Nash Quad sort of beast to play with at my antique truck, steam, and engine shows. Wish I could just weld new 10 hole budd centers in but they won't fit over my brake drums then. Putting the rubber on a 1966 GMC ex-airforce R-5 refueler chassis turned tractor to haul toys home. Would gladly pay to have this job done but local truck tire shop put it in their spreader and said "what the 'ell! It can't be done here, look at it! We don't have equipment to get that out! " Spent half a day getting one pulled out whole and cracked it from the awful forces I subjected it to.... Think I have six mil std rims out of the ten I need. Have civilian rims mixed in from fire department that owned it last. Anybody near Albany, NY want to come and play, show me how it's done?! Will trade brand new 12.00R20's on rims with runflats and ctis valves too! (got a package deal on 21 of them!)