M35a2 Transfer Case Lever Movement?

Hey All,
So I just went through the process of rebuilding the transfer case recently on an m35a2. Got everything back together and have been driving around I notice the gear lever moves around in high range while driving (when I decelerate / bounce around). Its not popping out of gear or making any grinding / noises so I am wondering is this normal or is something still not right in the case?

Thanks!

Mitch

You need to see if the shifter shaft is moving in the transfer or the entire case is moving. Most people re-use their old transfer mount bushings and with age they get hard and don't do their job. You can buy new ones, look in the -P manual, find the NSN and google/ebay it. Think I bought mine from Eastern.

Pull the rear floor section that covers the transfer and drive it and see what's moving.

clinto said:

You need to see if the shifter shaft is moving in the transfer or the entire case is moving. Most people re-use their old transfer mount bushings and with age they get hard and don't do their job. You can buy new ones, look in the -P manual, find the NSN and google/ebay it. Think I bought mine from Eastern.
Pull the rear floor section that covers the transfer and drive it and see what's moving.
View attachment 657268View attachment 657269

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Now I will pull up the floor to see what is in there while I drive it around. I suspect that my truck parts are not clean enough to eat off of like your pictures show. I will have pictures.
I just got replacement floor screws for all those empty holes I see.

So if its not the entire case moving around what would it be? If I continued moving around with my old mounts would it damage anything?

Thanks,

Mitch

frank8003 said:

Now I will pull up the floor to see what is in there while I drive it around. I suspect that my truck parts are not clean enough to eat off of like your pictures show. I will have pictures.
I just got replacement floor screws for all those empty holes I see.

Click to expand...

frank8003 said:

Now I will pull up the floor to see what is in there while I drive it around. I suspect that my truck parts are not clean enough to eat off of like your pictures show. I will have pictures.

Click to expand...

Wait............. you mean they're all not this clean?

mitchsc0tt0 said:

So if its not the entire case moving around what would it be? If I continued moving around with my old mounts would it damage anything?

Thanks,

Mitch

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If the shaft is moving back and forth in the case, then something inside isn't kosher. The entire main shaft would be moving back and forth. So there's a bearing, shim, something that isn't keeping the shaft in place. The transfer is just a 2 speed transmission, have you ever had a manual transmission that was a floor shift and as you stepped on and let off the gas you could feel the shifter moving back and forth? Same issue. The fix would be to take it apart and find the failure and fix it.

So far as the mounts being loose, if that's the case, I wouldn't leave them as is. Try tightening them first, they can loosen up. I wouldn't leave it moving around for fear that the mounts could eventually loosen up too much.

Mine does this as well. I can only feel it/see it when I let off the gas. It only moves slightly to the rear as you depress/let off the gas. Never had any issues with it, but it is interesting.

So today tonight i had some time to try to inspect what is going on which didn't lead to much conclusion....I pulled the floor up and drove around a little bit and it seems that maybe the case is moving but it was very hard to tell. The only time I saw the shifter shaft move was when i held the brakes and released the clutch to the point where i was almost stalling the truck.

frank8003 said:

Now I will pull up the floor to see what is in there while I drive it around. I suspect that my truck parts are not clean enough to eat off of like your pictures show. I will have pictures.
I just got replacement floor screws for all those empty holes I see.

Click to expand...

Transfer shift lever moving around because nut is loose but propeller shaft transmission to transfer case all bolts loose, is that what you all call it to be the jackshaft? I see many places I haven't greased, speedo cable kinked, vent maintenance, and easier way to get to the air shift mechanism and more cleaning to do. All I originally wanted was to have all the tunnel bolts in place.

The end-all solution to bolts losing preload and backing off on driveshaft flanges is to add a pair of Nord-Lock washers behind every nut on each driveshaft flange bolt. I put these washer pairs on every single driveshaft bolt of my bobbed deuce, and NOTHING has backed off the original torque.

Quote from my build thread:
"When I decided to add some piece of mind on critical bolted joints on the deuce I installed Nord-Lock washers. These washers prevent loosening of critical bolted joints because the angle between each little wedge on the washer faces is greater than the bolt pitch (angle). Each joint receives a pair of Nord-Lock washers that are harder than any bolts, washers, or nuts (48 Rockwell C). I chose to install the Nord-Locks on the drive shaft flanges first. This would be the front driveshaft, rear driveshaft, transmission-transfer case driveshaft as well as the winch driveshaft. The little buggers are pretty expensive. $0.90 for each 3/8" washer pair, $1.36 for each 1/2" pair, and $3.23 for each 3/4" pair. You can't use them on the lug nuts because deuces are lug centric and not hub centric. Nord-Lock does make lug nuts for heavy equipment and other vehicles that have flat faced lug nuts."

Notes:
- They are reusable
- They are not matched pairs (use any 2 of them together)
- Between the reduction of torque for anti-seize and increased torque for Nord-Lock I use the lower torque values listed in the TM's.

See below for more information:
http://www.nord-lock.com/products/wedge-locking/washers/introduction/

Heres how I stopped my lever from bouncing out of high., ( $1.99 home depot deadbolt )

The SS members make all the work done sound so easy...
Just making the torque on the coupling bolts alone, and some GAA
on fittings never seen before, 3 hours. Lots of neat stuff in there.

Bill W said:

Heres how I stopped my lever from bouncing out of high., ( $1.99 home depot deadbolt )

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in TM is adjustment for that

Hey All so I finally got down to figuring out what the issue was looks like I had some left over gasket material on the input shaft Input Hub (the whole assembly with the shaft seal) causing it to have space between the front bearing allowing the whole shaft to move back and forth a little. I cleaned off gasket material and added a slight shim in between the bearing and Input hub thing to allow no sliding all seems good now.

mitchsc0tt0 said:

Hey All so I finally got down to figuring out what the issue was looks like I had some left over gasket material on the input shaft Input Hub (the whole assembly with the shaft seal) causing it to have space between the front bearing allowing the whole shaft to move back and forth a little. I cleaned off gasket material and added a slight shim in between the bearing and Input hub thing to allow no sliding all seems good now.

Click to expand...

pictures would be good