Fording w/o kit

So the maximum amount of water I can ford is 30 inches. That means water can only come up to a little above the rim

But there's another foot or more to the actual intake. Did am general rate the max depth this way so soldiers didn't splash water over the hood into the intake?

Or is this actually the physical limitations, where if I ford 37 inches I am going to stall the engine?

Cause in my area there are certain parts that flood pretty badly and the water is still but sometimes is above 30in.

Remember that your pumpkins have vents that will allow water into the crown gear assemblies and ruin them. You also have batteries mounted low in the interior body.

T

In getting to know my truck through various repairs and work I've done, including slowly installing the deep fording kit piece at a time when I find good prices on components, there are two things I've noticed besides the actual intake height that limit it to the 30" mentioned.

1) The rubber "duckbill" on the bottom of the air cleaner housing for clearing out large debris. Water could get sucked into that. It is replaced with a solid rubber cap on installation of the deep fording kit (one is included with the Turbo III precleaner but if you're installing that you already presumably have the snorkel associated with the deep fording kit).

2) The fuel tank vent filter that is mounted near the coolant tank (it's that little gold colored cylinder with the open nipple on it). On the deep fording kit, that vent is attached to a line that extends up the back side of the snorkel. If that isn't extended, water will get into your fuel tank.

There's also the modified CDR valve which appears to reroute some of the engine crankcase pressure into the driveline, I'm guessing to create a slight overpressure in it to keep water from migrating past the diff and geared hub seals. Not sure if that's exactly the precise method of operation or if this is really a significant risk but clearly, the system was designed with a specific goal in mind.

Without knowing the detailed ins and outs of the deep fording kit since I don't have the complete one yet, those are the biggest limitations I can see of stock versus deep fording equipped. Maybe someone more knowledgeable on the system operation can fill in the gaps I surely left.

TOBASH said:

Remember that your pumpkins have vents that will allow water into the crown gear assemblies and ruin them. You also have batteries mounted low in the interior body.

T

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Those vent lines are supposed to be routed collectively to the air filter housing and the military spec batteries are supposed to be rated for submersion.

ryanruck said:

Those vent lines are supposed to be routed collectively to the air filter housing and the military spec batteries are supposed to be rated for submersion.

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Thanks for the correction and information.


T

I am also piecing a kit together and all I can add is the vented power stg cap, there is an additional vent for the hydroboost, transmission and oil dipsticks with twist to seal like the gas cap with the appropriate tubes, and a sensor cup to the already mentioned components with a switching valve on the dash.

That and the other components already mentioned make up the fording kit.

There is also an instruction to seal the cables off the dual voltage niehoff in a white rubber/silicone dow sealer I think 706.

I have an extra cap for the air filter and a fording data plate. Pm if I can help you.

juanprado said:

I am also piecing a kit together and all I can add is the vented power stg cap, there is an additional vent for the hydroboost, transmission and oil dipsticks with twist to seal like the gas cap with the appropriate tubes, and a sensor cup to the already mentioned components with a switching valve on the dash.

That and the other components already mentioned make up the fording kit.

There is also an instruction to seal the cables off the dual voltage niehoff in a white rubber/silicone dow sealer I think 706.

I have an extra cap for the air filter and a fording data plate. Pm if I can help you.

Click to expand...

I was driving down the highway when I typed that and knew I forgot to mention something. I should have remembered the sealing dipsticks and caps. I bought the trans dipstick for goodness sake!

Yes, the batteries can go under water just fine.
Without the fording kit, pressure will push water into things such as the hubs. There is nothing to stop it coming in the seals. Water will come in and air will go out the filter. With the fording kit, there is an upside down "cup" on the right frame rail. When this goes under water, it pressurizes the components, keeping the water from coming in.

juanprado said:

I am also piecing a kit together and all I can add is the vented power stg cap, there is an additional vent for the hydroboost, transmission and oil dipsticks with twist to seal like the gas cap with the appropriate tubes, and a sensor cup to the already mentioned components with a switching valve on the dash.

That and the other components already mentioned make up the fording kit.

There is also an instruction to seal the cables off the dual voltage niehoff in a white rubber/silicone dow sealer I think 706.

I have an extra cap for the air filter and a fording data plate. Pm if I can help you.

Click to expand...

I use my humvee as a daily driver and the blind spots on both sides of the A pillar are bad enough. I do however take it off roading a lot and encounter a lot of deep water, sometimes more than 30 which makes me reroute.

My main concern is the worse visibility out that right side, with the a pillar, mirror, and stack I fear that it can make driving pretty sketchy. Secondary, the full kits cost $1000 plus on epay, dont know if there are any cheaper around?

Also anyone know if the 4l80 dipstick from a hummer h1 needs to be replaced in deep fording kits?