• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

 

M35A3 6x6 to 4x4 project

tobyS

Well-known member
4,820
816
113
Location
IN
I'm beginning to flesh out some changes to my 97 A3 project. It's becoming a 4x4.

Thanks to all who have posted excellent workmanship before (bobbing and various suspension systems) here on SS, that have inspired me. I'll do my best to make a nice machine and tool.

The twist with this truck, is that it may run (as in be a significant power source for) a portable sawmill.

First, As you will see in the pictures I post, it is clearly marked with 4th and reverse out, so I bought it with a known tranny problem. The prior owner had bought a used tranny to replace one having that same problem...and it had burned out clutches also. I got the original transmission in a box in the bed.

Rebuilt the original Allison 1545 tranny and (locking) torque converter, now it's ready to go in. The PTO has been installed onto the tranny, but I'm changing to a different pump, so selling the one pictured.

I have a Sundstrand hydroatat pump that I'm considering for a carriage drive on the sawmill and it has a nice variable displacement on the back of that. It can work the dual purpose of a snow plow in a closed system and will be just the right HP for turning, clamping, setworks and carriage drive, from the Cat 3116 and Allison. Now to see if I can make it fit. If I go with only the snow plow, the VD pump will be sweet, direct coupled to the PTO. I bought a lot of the PTO's from GL, so have a few to work with.

I'm using an M105 bed and want 4" overhanging the frame at the rear. I plan on a step bumper with my trailer connections, but the pintle is the major connection. Bumperets get removed.

The M105 is 50" to the center of the wheel well from the rear. That makes the single rear axle at 12" further forward from the present rear most position. Being that I have a donor M105, I have considered using the trailer springs and perches...but...I like the idea of a smoother ride with air springs and four link.

So here is the plan. I'm going to remove the intermediate axle and use the present link system on the rear axle...dog bones... but add a fourth link at the top and move the top two, to outside the frame.

The entire frame mount assembly that the rear axle dogbones mount to, will be moved forward and kept. I'm not changing the original geometry of the rear, but I will install the top links, one on each side, on the outside of the frame and above the bottom link. That makes a true four link, using one of the dogbones and axle bracket from the removed axle. Then I fab the air bag mount, shock mounts and probably a watts link.

I recovered the 105 from it's mud and towed it 40 miles home today. And (5) Michelin XZL 395's came. Wow...what shoes?

The deuce bed becomes a dump bed trailer on it's own, on tandem 7k Dexters with hummer wheels...and much lower to the ground.

I'll go take some pictures.

Please address my suspension idea. I have not seen this exact method...and I have done several searches.
 

Attachments

Last edited:

tobyS

Well-known member
4,820
816
113
Location
IN
I have a couple of NOS torque arms (would be used on a semi trailer) that could be used for the upper links. Or they would make a Watts link... and stick with OEM dogbones (four).
 

Attachments

tobyS

Well-known member
4,820
816
113
Location
IN
Bringing this project to life again but going the more traditional route of M105A2 springs and mounts. I'll be ordering an L shaped steel plate piece for 8' of lap on the side of the frame and 5" below. Thus 13"x 3" x 8' of 1/4 plate. The M105 mounts attach to the side of the frame, not under it.

The above (photo with 4 link ideas) can be put together on the spare axle, with air bags.

I do not want to cut the frame and want full rotation of the pintle. Using an M105 bed and want the axle centered on the wheel well, it makes a 30" space between the back of the cab and the front of the bed.

I have a light hydraulic winch, 5000# from a HEMTT Grove crane to be put there. Maybe a sleeper for the cab and HEMTT style roof.

Gimpy hurt my feelings calling my A3 ugly...and this roof idea may not help it's feng shui. We can tell Chris he is a feng shui expert given his avatar.
 

gentrysgarage

Active member
553
118
43
Location
Lost Angels, CA
I had looked into air springs as it would be the easiest option, my difference was I would have used a virtually level track bar. You would get a little more articulation. I wanted the stone cold reliability of springs. With using your plan it will be 100 times quicker than mine!
 

tobyS

Well-known member
4,820
816
113
Location
IN
Hey Toby, sometimes something is so ugly it is cute ! Maybe that was what he was referring to !
Chris was just poking fun at the A3 model, Rusty.

I have a lot to do to it with tranny and pto and hard top and crane. I used the 395 tires I had for it on my 929, so have to sell something to get another set (5 not 7). Extra (5) A3 wheels are at tire shop to take apart so I can clean and paint them. Got new o-rings 70 duro -467 and new big bore stems. It's setting on 4 reasonable 365/80r20's now that have new seals so tires won't hold me up, but I want the rims ready when I do get them.

I think I need to take a trip to the surplus steel yard to add to what I have on hand in 2x2 or 2x3 tube. I go back and forth on building a crane that rotates or just building the winch in the front of the bed and making an A frame. That reminds me to have the frame steel formed....can't do much without that as far as putting together.
 
Top