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Headlights or spotlights?

clinto

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I think most of us are familiar with the headlights used on armor, a lot of us have used them (or are planning to) as spotlights and reverse lights.

However, reading one of Austin Aviation's eBarf auctions this morning, I noticed something...

Military Surplus, used, good condition, 24v bulb works on low beam but not on hi beam.

So 2 questions:

1. Are all the lights you see that look like this the same, or are there low/hi-beam lights out there and single beam spotlights?

2. Will there be any issues hooking this one up as a reverse light?

Thanks fellas

C
 

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citizensoldier

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Bulbs for these are out there Napa and others in both 6,12,and24 volt. Also in spotlight, or high/low headlight style. You can use the one you have just hook up either the high or low side or if you want to get fancy put a high/low switch for your back up light.. LOL... The bulb size is the same as the convoy light bulb. The most pricey is the 24 volt high low because they are listed as airplane runway light bulbs... I think $30 a piece.
 

clinto

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Ok, so is the only difference between a spotlight the bulb or is the "housing" different?
 

citizensoldier

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just the bulb, but they are grounded through the mount. I took some of mine apart that I was putting the regular spotlight in, made one side of the high low connection the ground and the other the hot leed. Then grounded them real good to the truck. I dont trust using the mount for the ground.
Wagner Headlamp 28 volt is # 4811
Wagner Spot, Aircraft 28 volt 4505
 

Recovry4x4

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One of these days I have to go out into that damn semi trailer I can't sell and see what I have for bulbs. I've bought several lots of Ebay for pennies just because they were 28V. Got lucky and ended up with a bunch of wrecker bulbs once. I know I have some of both 4505 and 4811s
 

citizensoldier

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Some more info

Maybe you can post this where it needs to be? Its raining here this morning so what else to do but take pictures of light bulbs.. How many gnomes does it take to screw in a light bulb?


None! They can't reach it... :p :D :D :D :lol: :lol: :lol:

Wagner 4811 28 volt high/low three prong fits armor light housing and has propper plug configuration
Wagner 4505 Spot Aircraft 28 volt 2 prong fits housing
Napa 4511-1 Farm Tractor 12 volt 2 prong flood fits armor light housing
Wagner 4515 6volt 2 prong spot fits armor light housing

Wrecker type spot light

Wagner 4421 13 volt 2 prong spot
Wagner 4579 24 volt high low headlight 3 prong
Wagner 4578 24 volt flood light 2 prong
 

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CARNAC

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RE: Some more info

Let me jump in on this since I have quite a bit of experience with these lights.

Although the IR light states in the TM that it is a different bulb from the white light, in the field I have only found the (actual or equivelent) Wagner 4811. I think the 4812 is what the TM states for the IR light.

Based on experience, you can hook the lights up by either
1. taking the hot wire and splitting it and running hot to both of the connectors. So both the hi and low beam are hot at the same time. This is how the IR light is normally hooked up.

2. run separate wires so you have a hi and low beam. The ground is through the bolt on the base. I seem to recall the left is the hi and right is the low but not 100% sure of that.

I also plan to make a hand held white and IR light by installing one of each type of light on a wooden handle and have the wires run to the electrical hookups intend for the radio in my M1009 (not that I would ever, ever go spot lighting with my truck). :)

Reference the egay issue stating only one beam is available (or whatever the said), I have run into the issue where either the hi or low beam worked and the other didnt because the bulb was blown on one level. Other issue could be the person writting the ad didn't know how to hook them up right and hooked them up by the way the IR lights are shown in the TM (ie one hot wire split and run to both terminals).
 

sermis

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RE: Some more info

Is there a place to get the lens covers. I have a bunch of the housings but no lens covers or bulbs.
 

Jones

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RE: Some more info

Something to consider on these lights that may save you some headaches down the line;
make sure that any light you use is DOT approved for highway use. Some aren't and a LEO has the authority to make you remove or disconnect them on the spot. Not good if they're your primary headlights.
In this state there's even a vehicle code stipulation as to headlight bulb dia(s). For sealed beams; some that put out plenty of DOT approved light we still can't run because the bulb dia. is too small.
Second is their use as a back-up light. No restrictions here regarding fluted or non-fluted lenses but a good idea is to hook them up through a reverse switch on the transmission. That way they don't get left on by accident. White light projecting from the rear is a vehicle code violation in most states because it blinds following drivers.
True they're handy if parked and you need a light source to see behind you for recovery ops. but a timer in the circuit will allow you 15 minutes per knob twist and then they automatically turn themselves off.
Just my 2 cents.
 

CARNAC

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PM me with your address info and I think I have one left.



btw, when looking for these bulbs, I find it best to google Wagner Light Bulb and then search within the various websites rather than search for wagner 4811 or something similar.
 
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Recovry4x4

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Resurecting this old thread to shine some light on my problem. Seems that one of the new Aurora armor headlights I got has a cracked bulb. It lights fine but the inside of the bulb has turned white. Thanks to Lane I have numbers to look for. I thought I had these bulbs but all I have are the 4578s for the wrecker floods and some 4505s which look like the size of a car headlamp. Since there has been a flurry of activity with these lights lately, I thought this thread would be best brought back up.
 

clinto

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Ok, I have a question and this thread may not be ideal, but I didn't want to start a new one. If I don't get what I need, I may start a thread.

Anyone who has taken one of these apart will know what I mean.

The mounting bolt which is also the ground isn't actually attached to anything inside the housing. It's encased in a rubber bushing which I assume is an insulator as well as a vibration measure.

Problem is that I have several of these that are "sloppy"-I.e. the housing flops around and won't stay pointed where I set it. The vibration of the truck lets it move.

Is there any kind of fix for this? Especially since eventually even the nos units will do the same.........
 

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clinto

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Maybe you can post this where it needs to be? Its raining here this morning so what else to do but take pictures of light bulbs.. How many gnomes does it take to screw in a light bulb?


None! They can't reach it... :p :D :D :D :lol: :lol: :lol:

Wagner 4811 28 volt high/low three prong fits armor light housing and has propper plug configuration
Wagner 4505 Spot Aircraft 28 volt 2 prong fits housing
Napa 4511-1 Farm Tractor 12 volt 2 prong flood fits armor light housing
Wagner 4515 6volt 2 prong spot fits armor light housing

Wrecker type spot light

Wagner 4421 13 volt 2 prong spot
Wagner 4579 24 volt high low headlight 3 prong
Wagner 4578 24 volt flood light 2 prong
CS, since you're obviously the expert, what's the difference between the 4811 and 4812?

I think at one time Carnac said the headlights call for 4811 and the IR lights call for 4812. Boatie has used 4812 in his headlights: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?19708-Sealed-beam-help&highlight=4812

His 4812's have a black backside. But otherwise, they appear to have a high and low beam and they're 3 prong.

I just ordered a bunch of 4811's, just want to make sure I've got the right stuff.
 
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