Roll over protection?

Here is a few for ideas.....

Build it to the same specs they use for excavating equipment. I believe the ROPS and EROPS has to support three times the vehicle weight.

I know I run a small Case dozer for my Brother and when running it up the sides of a deep pond I feel safer with the EROPS it has on it. Big, thick square tubing.

I would highly suggest using an A-325 grade bolt for any application that will be subjected to "shock loading." This bolt is designed for structural members, bridges, buildings, crane, hoist, monorails, etc. It will take a large static load, but more importantly, it will take the shock generated by having a truck fall on it. Most bolt failure is not due to overloading it, but from shocking it.
Just my

Global-M621 said:

Bjorn is right. The Norwegian army made roll bars for the M621.
We have arctic conditions here, and it get’s quite slippery in the winter. There were quite many accidents with these trucks, so they decided to mount roll bars on all the flatbed trucks. The other variants of the series did not receive this modification because I think they provided sufficient protection as they were.

The roll bar is a quite ugly and heavy item made from square tubing approximately 4x4” it also has a big support plate on both sides. The steel quality used is high tensile steel usually used in cranes and similar constructions. I have dismounted the one that was on my truck because I have mounted a knuckleboom crane on it, but it’s still in my yard so I can provide some detail photos if necessary later this week.

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I would like to see the pics if its not to much of a pain to get.

just curious if anyone had thought perhaps of taking out the supports for the soft-top, and replaced it with said tubing+over constructedness, or replaced the canopy bows in the rear with tubing to keep the stock look, but provide a decent and solid ROPS? would it even be possible? im not sure how the canopy+softop rigging goes, as i dont have a duece yet (one day- it will be mine ). and then maybe attach a sort of harness or seat belt system in the rear to keep the passengers back there safe and snug? just a thought- let me know what you think

I imagine what's your talking about could be done Surewriting. You wouldn't be able to maintain a complete stock look, but it could be incorporated somewhat into the existing cab.

Check out this website for ROPS:

http://www.roscommonequipmentcenter.com/

Bill

If you are concerned about side slopes, get one of these.

saddamsnightmare wrote:

Leave the cab door unlatched in questionable situations!

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That also works well when driving on lake ice in April


I always figured the reason MVs don't have rollbars is because it's against military regulations to roll them over. If Uncle Sam wanted you to roll over one of his vehicles he would have issued a series of manuals and regulations instructing soldier #1 and soldier #2 exactly how to properly roll one over in a military fashion.

SasquatchSanta said:

saddamsnightmare wrote:

Leave the cab door unlatched in questionable situations!

Click to expand...

That also works well when driving on lake ice in April


I always figured the reason MVs don't have rollbars is because it's against military regulations to roll them over. If Uncle Sam wanted you to roll over one of his vehicles he would have issued a series of manuals and regulations instructing soldier #1 and soldier #2 exactly how to properly roll one over in a military fashion.

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LMFAO! This has to be the single most hilarious post that I've read here!

Somewhat delayed, but here they are..

This one replaces the first bow on the bed and have approximately the same profile.
The bow is made from 80x80x5mm sqare tubing and is placed on top of the bed. The side plates is boltet bo the top and bottom flanges by 8 tigh tensile bolts each side. There are also 4 bigger bolts in the bow itself.

I’m sorry I don’t have any pictures of the bow mounted on the truck at the moment. I had a little computer crash some time ago so a lot of my pictures are unavailable at this time.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=27029&highlight=mtd

The top pic in this thread shows the required roll bar we installed for testing on the MTD program truck. This bar was attached to Huck bolted frame brackets through the bed of the truck. It was built to provide 12" of clearance to the driver's head from a slope line front (from the bumper) and rear (the flat bed of the truck). We never rolled one, but caqme close a few times during side slope mobility testing. (This was before the days of a tilt table at Milford PG.)

Best regards,

Bob

Global-M621, that's sort of nifty. Any data on tests of that design?

Below are a few pics I found of the M621 with the rollbar in place. They were apparently part of a food relief program.

I think this design is about the best you are going to get without drastically re-engineering the truck. It's not going to save you in all situations as any forward or backward force could easily collapse the single bar. The pics of the fire trucks are not going to do much for you either since the tubing is so small, not reinforced enough and is tied into the body too much and not the frame. The weight of the truck plus all the gear and water would be more than enough to collapse the cage around the cab. They are more to protect the truck from brush and trees than to protect the occupants in an accident.

As for the tubing, I agree with what was previously stated and will add that it should be a heavy wall seamless tubing like DOM or similar. It will require a special bender to prevent deforming of the tubing and weakening it during the bending process. We have a JD Squared Model 4 bender that bends very well but is limited to a maximum tubing diameter of 2".

Thanks for the pics Global.

Elwenil said:

We have a JD Squared Model 4 bender that bends very well but is limited to a maximum tubing diameter of 2".

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I think 2" is the limit for home-garage type benders. 3" would be perfect but there aren't any benders available that large.

TRY THIS WWW.SWRACECARS.COM CLICK ON ROLL BARS & CAGES


. They make race car chasis & vehical specific roll bars & cages.(YOU WELD IT) I bought one for my 84M1009 , & it fit with very little trimming for under $300 delivered. They are professionals & are located in PA. U.S.A. I had a guy t-bone me at an intersection about 30 years ago,I was doing about 55 on dry pavement, & I end over ended it about 6 times. Broke my back, all the ribs on my left side, collarbone & put about 300 stitches in my melon. sure would have like to had some r.o.p. then. I'll try to post some pictures of my setup after it gets light out.

All Gimp needed was the stack.

jumping out sound like a good plan