Rear axle seal replacement

I just got my duece registered (finally!!) and now it is time to drive the snot out of it. I thought it was a '71 but the gal at the counter put a call in and said it was a '73. So yay!
Now, only one problem, I just noticed that the inside of my left front duals is leaking gear oil. It happened on my last drive (those trip permits were getting pricey every week!), and it is spraying the underside of the bed. Dang!! Not real bad but "it just ain't kosher" that way.

I did a search on the subject and came up with the following advice.
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/index....e=viewtopic&t=173&highlight=deuce+tips+tricks

I checked out Saturn Surplus and they show an axle seal and also a gasket.
Is this correct? One of each needed?

If anyone has any more input or parts I need please let me know.

Oh by the way, I have read about cleaning the "vents" on these axles to make sure that the seals don't blow from pressure. I know it wasn't a long enough drive to get really warm but what do I know.
Where is the vent(s) and how do you clean them?


Thanks for any advice

The vents are in two different places, depending on the year the axle was made. The older ones are on the axle square tube, pointing up at the bed. The newer ones are on the side inspection plate where the pinion shaft goes through the diff. Call bret at boyce equipment. He has the axle seal kit with every thing you need to ghange the wheel seals. Don't forget the wheel bearings are sopposed to ride in grease. Getting gear oil on them won't hurt, but enough will wash the grease off of the bearings. And if enough oil isn't present it will burn up the bearings. These seals usally start to leak when the bearings go bad. I sudjest you check all the wheel bearings.

And sometimes, if an old style inspection plate is used to replace one on an old axle... there's NO vents!!!

Matt

Axle Seal replacement-bearing check

Thanks Ken,
To check for bearing wear what do I look for, cupping or small pits?

My buisiness is painting cars and, when need be, I do some minor mechnanical so this will be a challenge for me.

I'll get some pics of a bad wheel bearing asap

When you jack up the suspected wheel, try to rock the wheel up and down on the spindle. If you feel movement it's probally shot. After dissembly wash the bearings in solvent. If they are discolored "purple or a shade of blue" then they are no good. If any rust is present replace them also. It's not difficult, but eat a good breakfast, the parts are heavy. Also after you take the outer seal off there is a small piece of cork in the keyway. Don't loose it, you will need it.

ken said Also after you take the outer seal off there is a small piece of cork in the keyway. Don't loose it, you will need it.
you can make a new one from a chevy 350 valve cover gasket.

Yea you can make a new one. It looks like a wedge. You'll need a REALLY SHARP knife to keep the cork from tearing. Watch your fingers!!!!

Going to order the parts tomorrow.
What size is the socket for taking off the bearing lock nut(s)?
I may get it apart and end up needing you doctors to be on standby to guide me through this operation........"juz like in ze Vurld Vor II moviez".

Wheel bearing socket is 3" and its 8 sided not 6.

Kenny...

I was looking online (there's a dearth of truck shops near me)... and I could only find 3-1/4" 8 sided sockets.... What's the deal?
http://www.mytoolstore.com/otc/1901.html
http://shop.store.yahoo.com/brandsplace/0246-otc1909.html
http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/ShopCart/TOOL/POR_TOOL_CAT027_pg20.htm

I know that "any good truck store" should have them... but is there a part number or something? Thanks.

Matt

you need a KD-tools KDS-2445 its a 3"Octagon go's for about $35.

Also found that the OTC 1907 is the proper part... $16.07, according to Froogle.

Matt

Can anybody tell me what the proper method of setting the wheel bearing tighness is? I know it is in a TM but have yet
th DL them. If nessesary I will do so tonight. thanks