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IP line leak

uscgmatt

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Here goes, 2 of my injector lines are leaking. Its between the nut and the hydro head (pic attached). I assume there is an o-ring or seal of some sort in there but I cant find anything in the tm9-2910-226-34. Thanks for the help.
 

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uscgmatt

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Cordova, Alaska
I removed the leaking lines. And the mating surface on them are worn, I dont think they were fully tightened and now they are buggered up. I tried to clean them up but now they leak even worse. Is the ferrel under the nut replaceable, or is the whole line replaced? If they are not fixable does anybody know of a source for them? I need # 3 and 6. Thanks.
 
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combat32

Well-known member
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Booneville AR.
Another member here steered me toward a product called copper gasket, it solved my issue with the same type of leaks.Available at most auto parts stores.
 

jimmcld

Member
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Location
Denton, Texas
The more you fool with them, the more they leak. I've replaced two after trying to stop the leaks. One was definately broken, came out in two pieces. The other was probably cracked. Memphis Equipment sells them. Seems like they ran about $50 each with shipping.
 

gunboy1656

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Beaver Falls, PA
Thanks for this post, I was just about to ask about where to get the lines at. I noticed smalle cracks while tracing electrical problems the other day. This was going to be my next task.
 

bigmike

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Dixon CA.
I've had luck taking them out, cleaning them with light sand paper and re-seating. Otherwise, just get new lines.
 

uscgmatt

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Location
Cordova, Alaska
Well I bought new lines and installed them and the D*MN things still leak. Are the threaded sleeves in the ip head replaceable?
 

cranetruck

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I have not seen "new" lines, how was the ferrule seated? Was is loose and sliding easily on the tube like on a typical copper compression type fitting or was it already seated?
The image below shows how the ferrule gets pressed into the tube when tightened (I ground it down to get a cross sectional view).
The surfaces must be clean and have a polished finish for leakfree fit, I wouldn't recommend sandpaper for this, crocus cloth perhaps...
 

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cranetruck

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The tubing must bottom out in the hydraulic head seat and must be aligned perfectly. Keep the tubing loose on the other end by loosening up the clamp around the injector.
Push down firmly as you tighten the nut and the ferrule should really be free to move a little for this to work the first time. After the first install, the ferrule will be fixed as shown in the above image and can be reused a number of times. The torque should be around 60 ft-lb, not sure, but pretty tight.
Keep all surfaces clean.
 
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uscgmatt

Member
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Location
Cordova, Alaska
I removed the lines and the ferrule looks good but it dosent move anymore. Does this mean the ferrule is seated wrong and will not seat correctly? Are the ferrules replaceable? Thank you.
 

cranetruck

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The ferrule is not replaceable in this case, since it would involve cutting the tube.

If the ferrule is seated nice and square, you should still be alright. One reason to push the tubing into the fitting is to get it aligned so that the ferrule can do its job. If it ends up at an angle on the tubing, then it won't seal.
Check out the images below and google for more info.
 

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