Injection pump repair

Does your M35 not run at all? No fuel? No throttle? This might help you fix the problem.

Remove the two screws securing the engine stop control to the injection pump. Attempt to move the control mechanism, it should move FREELY. If it doesn't, you need to pull the control lever assembly. See image 1929, two standard slot screws. See image 1928. The twisted wire (safety wire) needs to be cut, note the direction and wrapping. Once the two screws are removed, pull the clevis clip off the control rod. Now the control assembly can be pulled. Some diesel will spill so catch it. Also, the pin (item A on figure 3-47) is loose, DO NOT LOSE IT!

With the unit pulled, check the rotation of lever in the hub, it must be loose. Solvent will help but if that doesn't work, the lever CAN be disassembled. Bend the tabs off the nut, holding the shaft with a 3/8 open end and turn the nut with a 7/16" wrench. The lever is pushed on splines on the shaft, measure the lever angle with respect to the flats on the shaft. Making a thin scribe mark will help reassembly, this angle MUST BE PRESERVED!!!

Once measurement has been made, push the shaft out of the lever and clean the shaft/hub to allow for free movment. There is NO SEAL on this shaft, only precise machining keeps fuel from leaking so ANY DIRT will cause problems.

When reassembling, the number on the lever should be visible, usually a "17". And the splines will align in the exact position, you need to be close. This is a tricky feel operation.

Once the unit is reassembled, remember the original position (take pictures) and reinstall. A dab of grease on the pin pawl (item A on 3-47) will keep it retained and horizontal position. The lever should point down or a little forward. The flange will fit flush against the body of the IP. Wiggle the lever to align. Install the screws, then fit the control rod into the lever and fix with the clevis clip. Complete with safety wire of the retaining screws according to the pictures you have taken.

This unit converts the motion of the governor control rod to vertical motion of the control collar. The control collar position determines the volume of diesel injected, hence power. So this is highly critical. The control rod motion is a balance of spring forces and the centrifugal force of the governor, there is too little force available to turn a sticky shaft, hence problems when dirty.

Yup, that is similar to what was wrong with my LDS motor in the latest deuce. It always makes me nervous whaen I have to work with parts that need saftey wires!

how about not starting? damned thing doesn't do jack since you shut it off last night. i get a nice solid click at the starter and nothing else.

i guess the %$@#$%&%$ starter died because i put it in reverse and pulled it a few feet with my truck to make sure the crank turned

this thing is testing me. reaaaaaaaaaaaaally testing me.

Check battery connections! That is why the lights and voltage gauge were flickering. When I hit the construction bump in Skidmore last night, the batteries shifted.

We had shimmed them up with an old bearing (back battery( and some cardboard but that had shifted.

They need to be properly mounted...the hold down is somewhere in the cab, IIRC.

gimpyrobb said:

Yup, that is similar to what was wrong with my LDS motor in the latest deuce. It always makes me nervous whaen I have to work with parts that need saftey wires!

Click to expand...

It is just much more secure than chemical thread locking. No need to worry, just remember the safety wire needs to be wound in a manner that would resist removal. Keeping the parts clean is FAR MORE important since this is the most critical section on the IP. Fortunately, most of the fuel here is bypass, going back to the tank.

you truly ARE the Deuce Whisperer!

must be a 24V system thing because i've never encountered that with a 12.............but yep, damned if you weren't 100%. one connection was loose enough to wiggle father down on the post and it fired right up.

that was the first time my dad had heard it run. even he had **** eating grin

looking at your pictures though...............didn't the hump on that piece end up going up? i siliconed it up today but damned if i remember which way it was positioned.

i seem to recall that we put it hump side down and figured out we were backwards?

Yeah, I installed it wrong the first time around. The cover will not go on. Which is why I had Andy get the stainless safety wire again. Hey, it was a first for me.

I need to remember to take pictures to keep my head straight.

On the battery, we had that problem last week. At least you know the alternator is fine.

Great write up Keith!
It was a pleasure to meet yourself lastnight, along with Andy.
And Jarrett, I appreciate the invite to come out and mingle.
We will hopefully be seeing each other more often, as i get further involved in this whole new hobby.

TexRdnec said:

how about not starting? damned thing doesn't do jack since you shut it off last night. i get a nice solid click at the starter and nothing else.

i guess the %$@#$%&%$ starter died because i put it in reverse and pulled it a few feet with my truck to make sure the crank turned

this thing is testing me. reaaaaaaaaaaaaally testing me.

Click to expand...

I had a situation a couple months back where I was getting intermittant starting when I'd hit the start button.Some of the time it'd start, other times nothing. in the end I traced it down to the ground cable from the starter (the one next to the block) and found the cable/loop on the frame side had cracked and was touching or not depending if the Deuce was parked on a grade or not, thus flexing/twisting the frame enough to loose contact by pulling away from the frame just enough to not be making a connection. I soldered a copper lug to the old cable on the frame side and everything was fine.

gimpyrobb said:

Yup, that is similar to what was wrong with my LDS motor in the latest deuce. It always makes me nervous whaen I have to work with parts that need saftey wires!

Click to expand...

Check the PS magazine section for more on safety wiring. If you need the wire go to Mcmasters.com, they have soft stainless steel "lock" wire in the gauge size you'll need....

If this kind of thing makes you nervous, you'd be a wreck working on the xm757, lock wires on fan bolts, steering components and more.