Check your balencer

airmech3839 · Mar 25, 2010

I marked the balancer and am driving it around putting it through the paces.... will check it before I leave work tonight and again in the morning before I head to work. Probably gonna end up changing it anyway to feel better about it.... [thumbzup]

I will post findings!!

REGULATOR · Mar 26, 2010

Yes, I was planning on changing it after I had read more about how bad they get.

wish I would have known more about these engines when I swaped the one with the broken crank, I would have replaced the balancer...

BUT you live and learn

good luck !! if it needs a special tool see the minister of war and finance.

Mudstone · Mar 29, 2010

so is it a yes or no to being able to replace it without removal of radiator?

airmech3839 · Mar 30, 2010

I will let you know by the weekend....my sources say you do not need to remove radiator....the fan may come off for ease of access but should only need to pull pulley and then the balancer.....requires a three hole puller to remove....and divine intervention to install stright...at leats what I hear...Will try and do a step by step picture deal when I do it...

baddy3 · Mar 30, 2010

I found this article on viscous fluid dampers but it lays out the replacement procedure quite clearly with tips on how to fabricate the instaler.

K9Vic · Apr 2, 2010

Mudstone said:
so is it a yes or no to being able to replace it without removal of radiator?

Yes you can replace it with out removing the radiator, but you need to remove the fan and shield for ease of removal.

Question for anyone, there was clogged dirt in the small holes around the outside of my balancer I just removed. Would this cause a problem if dirt is stuck in there, should I remove any dirt from my other CUCV trucks if there? See image for an example.

airmech3839 · Apr 3, 2010

Ok here is the post you have all been waiting for......

BALANCER R&R on a M1009

First order is to get TM and get torque data

special tools needed

Have a prybar 18" and 24" would be good
15/16" socket
1/2 breaker bar or two and rachet
Torque wrench
2x4 and hammer
balancer puller

Park truck in area where it will be easy to crawl under and also get under hood....a stool or box helps....

Gain access by removing fan belts and then remove the 4 nuts (1/2") on the fan at the pully on water pump.
Then remove the fan shroud remember to pull all bolts from it.....2 on bottom and I think 6 on top(10mm) and the upper radiator hose is clamped (11mm or 12mm) to it as well...

Then crawled under and used a 18" prybar from harbor frieght....(by the way 4 pack on sale for 7.99) and using frame hole and timing mark on balancer held balancer still to remove 4 (15mm or 9/16") bolts from crank pulley I used 2 breaker bars and held one bolt and loosened others then used the prybar for last bolt...

Once pulley is removed.....install 2 of the pulley screws back in and hand tighten them down most of the way....then isnert prybar between them to hold balancer....(shown in picture below).... then using a 15/16" socket on a breaker bar remove the bolt and large washer from crank.....then remove the 2 pulley bolts and install puller.....

Remove balancer then using careful practice remove old woodriff key and replace with new... then place new balancer in place and slide on as far as you can by hand then using a 2x4 about 8" or a little longer and a hammer tap balancer down as far as you can.

Then install new bolt and thick washer and torque after insuring it is seated....

Then clean pulley off...the one I was doing had trash built up in it......that alone could cause problems on your pulleys...then installed everything in reverse order and remember to torque your bolts and if neccesaery use thread locker...blue is best if you ever want to remove it again...

Here are the pics to go with the procedure....

REGULATOR · Apr 3, 2010

WHOOO HOOOO

man that was a lot of crud in there, probably the remenants of the last 5 fan belts it ate...

somebody should buy you a beer, or two or three

GOOD WORK, Your thank you is coming...

K9Vic · Apr 3, 2010

Thanks for the install guide, it should help others when they install theirs.

I just do not like the idea of hammering the balancer in place so I would recommend the tool that Fluidampr’s guide says to make. If you have access to a welder it makes installing the balancer easy (My homemade tool is attached). I would also suggest changing all you belts at the same time, especially the power steering since you have to remove it anyways.

airmech3839 · Apr 4, 2010

Well Regulator, since it was your truck....Your Welcome......yeah that was alot of junk in it...

It was about a 3 hour job in all....can't really tell cause I ended up having to stop a couple times to deal with the kids....

But it was not frustrating which is awesome!!!

As to using a hammer and a block of wood.....I dont see a problem as long as you get it started and you know is lined up with woodriff key...I mean your not beating it you are tapping it....if it doesnt move on first couple of taps then you might wanna check to see if you lined it up right.... Although that is a cool tool....

tmike · Dec 27, 2011

Here is a link from "the diesel page" that covers the ins and outs of fluid dampers. I think I'm going to bite the bullet and go with a fluid damper.

TMike

Tanner · Dec 27, 2011

K9Vic said:
Yes you can replace it with out removing the radiator, but you need to remove the fan and shield for ease of removal.

Question for anyone, there was clogged dirt in the small holes around the outside of my balancer I just removed. Would this cause a problem if dirt is stuck in there, should I remove any dirt from my other CUCV trucks if there? See image for an example.

Are you sure that the 'mud' wasn't due to mud dobbers?

I've found these in bolt holes & other openings on my engine...

'Tanner'

cjtroutt · Dec 27, 2011

Well Bad Ballancer do Brake Crank shaft and 6.2L & 6.5L and Cummins will bust a crank to I been an Engine Builder and Heavy Repair Mechanic on Diesel engine's for over 30 years.
First sign's is on a cummins NTC 290 through NTC 400 was that the accessory drive would bust the shaft and soon after the crank would go if you did not replace the Ballancer and they are fluid dampiner type.
The GM 6.2L and 6.5L will start to leak around the crank side where the key way is some times you can undo the the front crank bolt and the ballancer will come off by pulling it off with your hands.
So this is my Two pennys. 2cents

allenhillview · Dec 28, 2011

airmech3839 said:
Ok here is the post you have all been waiting for......

BALANCER R&R on a M1009

First order is to get TM and get torque data

special tools needed

Have a prybar 18" and 24" would be good
15/16" socket
1/2 breaker bar or two and rachet
Torque wrench
2x4 and hammer
balancer puller

Park truck in area where it will be easy to crawl under and also get under hood....a stool or box helps....

Gain access by removing fan belts and then remove the 4 nuts (1/2") on the fan at the pully on water pump.
Then remove the fan shroud remember to pull all bolts from it.....2 on bottom and I think 6 on top(10mm) and the upper radiator hose is clamped (11mm or 12mm) to it as well...

Then crawled under and used a 18" prybar from harbor frieght....(by the way 4 pack on sale for 7.99) and using frame hole and timing mark on balancer held balancer still to remove 4 (15mm or 9/16") bolts from crank pulley I used 2 breaker bars and held one bolt and loosened others then used the prybar for last bolt...

Once pulley is removed.....install 2 of the pulley screws back in and hand tighten them down most of the way....then isnert prybar between them to hold balancer....(shown in picture below).... then using a 15/16" socket on a breaker bar remove the bolt and large washer from crank.....then remove the 2 pulley bolts and install puller.....

Remove balancer then using careful practice remove old woodriff key and replace with new... then place new balancer in place and slide on as far as you can by hand then using a 2x4 about 8" or a little longer and a hammer tap balancer down as far as you can.

Then install new bolt and thick washer and torque after insuring it is seated....

Then clean pulley off...the one I was doing had trash built up in it......that alone could cause problems on your pulleys...then installed everything in reverse order and remember to torque your bolts and if neccesaery use thread locker...blue is best if you ever want to remove it again...

Here are the pics to go with the procedure....

Where did you buy new balancer , OEM ? That Fluidamper is 435.00 I can't go that right now. But I've got to get this done I've noticed mine since day one it has been a year...., ready to fix mine. Thanks for INFO .

344lbsofgetdown · Dec 28, 2011

did not remove the fan or shroud when i did mine the blades are staggard on the fan no problems used a OTC installer that autozone rents out i bought mine but its on the rental program took me about 45 min done

spicergear · Dec 28, 2011

Hey Kenny, the price just went down on the 6.2's again!!!

doghead · Dec 28, 2011

allenhillview said:
Where did you buy new balancer , OEM ? That Fluidamper is 435.00 I can't go that right now. But I've got to get this done I've noticed mine since day one it has been a year...., ready to fix mine. Thanks for INFO .

DORMAN Part # 594128 , About $60

Sharecropper · Dec 28, 2011

My M1028 sat on a NG base in Arizona for 25 years with the windows rolled up. When I got it last year all the rubber had dry-rotted and cracked due to the extreme heat of the southwest climate. During my rebuild I replaced all the rubber components including vacuum hoses, but it never occured to me to inspect the harmonic balancer. I just looked at it and, sure enough, it appears to be shot as well. I am glad I saw this thread before pulling it out of the shop. Thanks to TMIKE for the link to the Diesel Page article.

Today I ordered a new model 800191 from Fluidampr. This is the correct model for the 6.2 according to Mr. Ivan Snyder at Fluidampr, who was very helpful on the phone. The total cost including shipping was $455 but Hey - this is a lot less than fixing a broke crank! Mr. Snyder explained that the gel-filled design of the Fluidampr product will compensate for crankshaft stress thoughout the entire frequency spectrum at any RPM, thereby smoothing up the engine completely. And the gel-filled design will never wear out.

I will post a follow-up after I get the product installed.

Dave Kay · Dec 28, 2011

Me thinks that along with the doghead relay mod, replacing the damper is a must-do if you want to avoid mucho problemos. Only I wonder bout the FluidDampr fit inside the CUCV engine bay.

Check it out: picked up a brand new NOS genuine GM damper on eBay a few months back... maybe the guy has a few more left? P.N. 14022671 $90 plus shipping $20 - also new crank seal AC Delco P.N. 296-01 for $15. Just waiting for a nice warm spell and I'll get 'er done.

Over the years I have always tried to get GM or Delco parts for my trucks and it has paid off many times over - Example; cheapo AutoZone stater for SBC $40 bucks, lasts about a year or maybe two - Genuine GM starter $260 bucks and has lived for over 14 years with no problems. Ya' git wotcha' pay for!

Blazerbaileyxx · Dec 28, 2011

My balencer was about to back out I caught it not a second too late it scared me how bad it was

Check your balencer

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