Glow Plug - By Pass Help

Then:


6. Removed the air cleaner and placed a shop towel over the intake as a precaution
7. Removed the Top bolt holding the resister to the fire wall, then the two bottom bolts
note: you do not want to remove the 4 bolts on the front of the resister pack as they hold the resister to the metal mounting plate.
8. Removed the lead that ran from the 24v bus to the resister pack as it had the fusible link on it.

9. I determined that the ring terminal with the fusible link fit nicely over the glow plug relay terminal, so I cut off the small terminal that was on the resister. I took the boot from the other wire without the fusible link. Then I placed a new ring terminal on the other end.
10. I cleaned the 12v bus terminals with some electronic contact cleaner and a wire brush.
11 Then I placed the reused glow plug wire on the 12v bus with my new terminal, and then the fusible link end on the GP relay (fusible links are typically put on with the link end connected to the voltage source but the factory put the link from the bus to the battery on unconventional... I figured it was expedient if I did the same).

I put the aircleaner back on and the battery terminals and was 12v glow plug conversion complete.

Next I pulled the old military glow plugs and put in the AC60G’s… the T/M didn’t say to use anti seize grease, but the old ones had it, and I figured it was a good idea, so I put some on the threads . I chose to cut the old terminals off the green wires and crimp on standard terminals just like my Civi Suburban with a 6.2 has. The aft two plugs were a little hard to get the torque wrench on (T/M said 10ftlbs) , but with an extension, or working from below it wasn't too hard.

Hope it helps,

Tom

I have no clue why, but I see a difference in the M1009 and the M1008. I saw it on another M1009 down the street from me too. Look at where the battery wire connects to the 12 volt junction bus on the M1009 shown and the pics from my m1008. They are on different sides.

EDIT- The 30 amp fuse you see is for my trailer brakes, so disregard that wire.

I see what you see, but since the two posts are connected with a solid link, it does not matter.

Here is what i did. used a Red heavy gauge wire. Disconected 24V taped it up real good and zip tied it.

Thanks doghead, I was wondering and figured you would know. The gp resistor bypass is working great for me. I am waiting for some really cold weather to see what happens.

Thanks to all of you that point us in the right direction. I know it is frustrating at times.

NICE! I will be doing this tomorrow morning then off to get AC60G's!

I changed to Ac60G's befor i did the mod and i think i hurt my glow plugs so when i install the new IP ill put new ac60G's in for good measure. I will also be taking the resistor off the wall and clean up the wiring.

I just put a push button on the light blue wire at the controller card in case it fails this winter... here are my pics. GP bypass and card bypass complete!

ETA: Doghead, I updated my sig... my M1009 is a 1986... thanks for the positive word. It means a lot coming from you!

Nice pics.

What year is your truck?

I did the conversion and threw the new AC60's in. Did new connectors with dielectric grease. She fires RIGHT up now. The only thing I noticed is that I don't hear the "clunking" when the plugs cycle. I hear the initial "clunk" when I turn the keys and when I start it the voltage stays down until the plugs are warm and turn off. Before I did the conversion, they used to "cycle" and my voltage would drop for a few seconds, then turn off, then drop, then turn off, etc. Is this all normal operation?

Thanks!

If you want to hear more clunking, kick the door with your left foot after it starts.

Otherwise, be happy it starts well and will no longer take out all the glow plugs when one goes bad.

mr.travo said:

I did the conversion and threw the new AC60's in. Did new connectors with dielectric grease. She fires RIGHT up now. The only thing I noticed is that I don't hear the "clunking" when the plugs cycle. I hear the initial "clunk" when I turn the keys and when I start it the voltage stays down until the plugs are warm and turn off. Before I did the conversion, they used to "cycle" and my voltage would drop for a few seconds, then turn off, then drop, then turn off, etc. Is this all normal operation?

Thanks!

Click to expand...

Long answer: No expert but I'd suspect your step down resister was starting to go, or one of your plugs was bad... whatever it was the controller didn't detect the proper voltage and defaulted to a protective mode where it cycles in order to heat, but also not burn out the plugs... IIRC this was unique to the military version of the controller card so that the truck would still start even when it was cold and something was messed up. You can read more on it if you read the Glow Plug sticky at the top of the forum. Also the Haynes Tech Manual on the 6.2 has a good section on the controller. I think CUCVELECTRIC does as well... anyways...

Short answer: you probably fixed something. Take DogHeads satirical advice, kicksomething if you need clunking and be happy.

FYI mine did the same thing... a lot less clicking and stuff and still good starting (when the starter engages... that's my beef right now).

Weird... that's twice it did a no nothing double tap... hmmm

having a hard time starting in morn on my 6.2...suggestions? Also, hearing a clicking noise under dash while driving

Check your batteries is the first thing to do. Make sure they are fully charged and load tested. Without know that both of thoses are done, we all will be guessing about your problem.

Have you downloaded the FREE technical manuals for your truck? If not visit the TM section at the top and download all the manuals for the CUCVs.

The TM 9-2320-289-20 has a step-by-step troubleshooting section for your problem.

Also what type of truck do you have and is it stock or modified (ie. wiring been hacked up)

thanks warthog....1984 blazer true military. Does not seem to be modified.

Thanks for the truck info. Helps us know what we are working with.

Here is what you want.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv-tms/77609-tms-cucv.html

Instead of tagging onto this thread, lets start your own, tell us what you have and what you have tried. Title it something like "M1009 Starting Issues" or something simular. A good title helps with future searching and troubleshooting.

To start a new thread,
Click on Forum at the top of the page
Click on "CUCV" Forum
Click "New thread".

Oh yeah....welcome to SteelSoldiers

top_prop, thank you for the easy to follow step by step with good pictures. Very easy modification. Just did it and then degreased the engine bay. I know I need a glow plug or two on the right bank but it's nice to know that I'm not sending extra juice to the rest in the meantime. I'll pick up some ACs in the near future and switch them over.

Mike

Thanks for the pics Top prop.