Please confirm my Glow Plug Relay

I'm going to replace my Glow Plug Relay tomorrow and I want to make sure that the one that is in there now is the correct one. Does everyone's GP relay look like this?
My vehicle has been taking longer and longer to start and finally bit the dust. Once it started it ran like a champ so I don't think it's a fuel issue. Thanks in advance for the help!

See this pic: http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s62/raf32/Glowplugrelay.jpg?t=1296968295

That isn't the original relay, its been upgraded to a regular relay so not every one will look the same. Your starting issue doesn't sound like its the relay, more like bad glow plugs or controller if it gradually got worse. But anyways, a good replacement is napa part number ST85 for your relay. I have the same thing.

Hi,

i would also say,that you go and check the glow plugs first.That´s pretty easy when you can get a clamp-on ammeter. Just put it around the negative cable going from the bat to the frame.
Have a second person trying to start the glow plugs. Key from off to ignition on.

You should be able to read about 160Amps (about 20 for each glow plug). When you read less than 100Amps there a definitely some plugs gone. To find the dead plug, just repeat the process, but clamp a round each wire of the plug. there you should see then about 20amps.
When reading is less, replace.

On my one i had reading between 80 and 90amps. so i took out all glow plugs, replaced with new ones from "BÖRG" and since then it starts amazingly quicker.


A good garage or an electrician should have such a tool, you might be able to borrow it for small tips.

best regards
Marcel

The relay in your picture should work fine. I agree that you problem is just as likely to be glow plug card. If the glow plug card went, the glow plugs are probably fried as well.

Where is the Glow Plug Card and how is it tested?

The glow plug controller is located under the dashbord, next to the steering column.
see the picture for details. There are no testing procedures for the card available. if you have someone who is in electronics, then give it to him for testing.

Normally you should hear an audilbe "KLACK" when the glow plug relay is activated. When you are sure that the relay is okay, then it is up to the controller board. There are 2 more threads dealing with those issues: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/33903-glow-plug-card-repair.html
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/1...ement-transistor-q2-gp-module-12034592-a.html

Or check this, it explains almost every aspect of the glow system: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/62477-gp-module-theory-operation.html


best regards
Marcel

Are the glow plugs in the stock CUCV the same crummy ones GM used in the civilian 6.2L Diesel? If so, they are 6 volt glow plugs that they cycle on and off. I and most of the folks I know ditched all that because they are expensive, the controller doesn't last and fails in such a way that usually the GP relay sticks on, frying the plugs. If you disconnect the GP relay under the hood by pulling the connector off the coil that energizes the relay, a little shot of ether in the intake fires it right up on a cold start - any weather. Once started, restarts the same day don't need GP or ether. Mine hits after about two revolutions of the crank.

The procedure to test the glow plug card for proper operation is in the -20 manual.

So is the procedure for testing the entire glow plug system including the glow plugs.

The CUCV wiki also has a quick glow plug check procedure.



pages 2-62 and 2-63

15. GLOW PLUG MODULE INOPERATIVE

NOTE
The only way to determine if your glow plug module is operating properly is through testing. The glow plug module should not be replaced until the following tests are performed.

Rustygears said:

Are the glow plugs in the stock CUCV the same crummy ones GM used in the civilian 6.2L Diesel? If so, they are 6 volt glow plugs that they cycle on and off. I and most of the folks I know ditched all that because they are expensive, the controller doesn't last and fails in such a way that usually the GP relay sticks on, frying the plugs. If you disconnect the GP relay under the hood by pulling the connector off the coil that energizes the relay, a little shot of ether in the intake fires it right up on a cold start - any weather. Once started, restarts the same day don't need GP or ether. Mine hits after about two revolutions of the crank.

Click to expand...

The glowplug system of the CUCV and the civilian trucks are simular but totally different. Different plugs and controller.