where exactly does the Boost gauge go on my engine?

I picked up the kit for boost and pyro and seen the location for the pyro ( Great pics) very helpful, But im kinda in the dark of where the location for the boost fitting? can anyone give me pretty barney instructions? im very visual.. lol Thanks again for all the help

4651C white engine

Follow the charge air pipe from the turbo. On the elbow where it turns to go into the intake manafold there is a small 1/8 pipe plug.It's on the top, facing the hood. I can't rember what size allen wrench fits. But anyway take out that plug and put your hose barb there.

BOOST Placement: is this it, in the yellow circle ?

ken said:

Follow the charge air pipe from the turbo. On the elbow where it turns to go into the intake manafold there is a small 1/8 pipe plug.It's on the top, facing the hood. I can't remember what size allen wrench fits. But anyway take out that plug and put your hose barb there.

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I am also looking for an answer... Is this the spot, in the yellow circle? In that spot I have a fitting going to my Kat's ether start that came on my truck. I pulled the 1/8" fitting there and it looks like a sensor... I'm not sure to install a "T" there or look somewhere else??? Open for suggestions, weather is nice right now so I'm anxious to complete this project.

If you have an ether kit, that is a spray nozzle and it must face a certain direction.

Do you have plugs in the spark plug hole and fuel nozzle holes, or did they leave them on the intake elbow when it was converted to ether?

You could remove one and modify it to take a line for the boost gauge.

The simplest thing in your case, is to drill and tap the intake elbow, and install your boost gauge line in the new hole.

doghead said:

If you have an ether kit, that is a spray nozzle and it must face a certain direction.

Do you have plugs in the spark plug hole and fuel nozzle holes, or did they leave them on the intake elbow when it was converted to ether?

You could remove one and modify it to take a line for the boost gauge.

The simplest thing in your case, is to drill and tap the intake elbow, and install your boost gauge line in the new hole.

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Thanks doghead, I'll drill and tap, since I have all the tools out already from trying to install the EGT. Funny thing, apparently I have a hole in my coveralls, the tap for the EGT fell out somewhere outside in the snow (North Dakota), now I get to make a run to the closest town to buy another. I just don't have to worry about these things in South Louisiana... I hate working in this snow, LOL. I'm going to start working out of a 5 gallon bucket from now on.

I work out of 5 gal buckets, all winter long.

OMG, what a difference! I took her for a spin after work, plenty of hills where we're currently drilling (Mandaree, ND). I don't see plums of black smoke, and my temps are still lower then the max. I'm going to leave it for now, until I get a ram air to give her a little more air. I wish this was the no.1 thing I did after getting the truck I did leave the ether nozzle alone in it's original place, just drilled and tapped another spot for the BOOST.

Repo3004 said:

OMG, what a difference! I took her for a spin after work, plenty of hills where we're currently drilling (Mandaree, ND). I don't see plums of black smoke, and my temps are still lower then the max. I'm going to leave it for now, until I get a ram air to give her a little more air. I wish this was the no.1 thing I did after getting the truck I did leave the ether nozzle alone in it's original place, just drilled and tapped another spot for the BOOST.

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Well what did you do besides install a pyro and a boost guage? Just tuning?

Ford Mechanic said:

Well what did you do besides install a pyro and a boost guage? Just tuning?

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All I did was turn up the fuel, I was just able to monitor the temp and boost with the new VDO gauges via the column pod from peashooter. I like the VDO gauges, mounted on the column, they're right there in front of you. I want like to add a Donaldson Ram Air Snorkle, but havent found a US dealer and AU will not ship them to the US, as of about a month ago. http://www.donaldson.com/en/engine/support/datalibrary/055480.pdf

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...-column-W-new-EGT-amp-Boost-Gauges&highlight=

Like others mentioned, she now starts up so much easier in the mornings. We're still having some 0 degree nights, and I'm able to start up without touching the ether button. It took about 2-3 times, where as in the past she wouldn't have started at all, without plugging her in.

thats a nice pod

Kohburn said:

thats a nice pod

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Here are (2) pics installed

Looks great Repo3004! I got to research turning up the fuel myself although all this pyro, boost and temp stuff is greek to me at the moment. I wonder since I don't have a turbo on the truck can I turn it up just a little and be OK without all that? Just curious, hope that's not too dumb of a question.

DeucesWild11 said:

Looks great Repo3004! I got to research turning up the fuel myself although all this pyro, boost and temp stuff is greek to me at the moment. I wonder since I don't have a turbo on the truck can I turn it up just a little and be OK without all that? Just curious, hope that's not too dumb of a question.

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It's still Greeek to me also I never had a turbo or big trucks till the last 9 months. I just kept reading and rereading. I know others will fuss, but I read where a diesel mechanic said to turn the fuel nut (engine running)till you see black smoke coming from the exhuast... That didn't seem very scientific to me I turned mine and then ran her through the hills for about 15 minutes. I never saw the plumes of black smoke others talked about. My EGT gauge showed I would peak out at 1100 degrees when I floored it going up hills. I would hate to give you bad information, there was tons of information on here, about turning up the fuel. Here is that link for that mechanic I was talking about. http://www.freewebs.com/nevrenufhp/ scroll down till you see Military Deuce & a half. It seems the big hype about the gauges is so the Turbo doesn't get overheated, which leads to more severe problems. I have years of reading still to go...

It's not so the turbo doesnt overheat. It's so the pistons dont melt.

I was pondering something interesting regarding boost gauges and another thread where some folks were debating if they had "Ram Air" in the old intake scoop.

A ball valve that had 2-4 inputs and a single output could be used with one boost/vacuum gauge to tell you exactly what boost you had at the turbo, as well as what restriction you have before and after the Air Filter... or what "Ram Air" effect that spanking new scoop gave you.

Just a thought.

nevrenufhp said:

It's not so the turbo doesnt overheat. It's so the pistons dont melt.

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Maybe, I'm missing something, this is my first Turbo. I understand the end result can be that the pistons melt. I thought it started from the heat generated from the turbo, which transfers over... I thought that's why we tie the egt into the turbo. Trying to learn

Repo3004 said:

Maybe, I'm missing something, this is my first Turbo. I understand the end result can be that the pistons melt. I thought it started from the heat generated from the turbo, which transfers over... I thought that's why we tie the egt into the turbo. Trying to learn

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Naw, the heat is generated in the cylinder, if you run over I think the temp was 1300*F in the cylinders the piston start to melt. We're only worried about the exaust side. Being the sensor is a little downstream you have to assume that it's started to cool some. Me personally I don't let mine hit 1200*F others let it bump a little over, it's just a personal thing and my opinion is it's my money not Uncle Sam's that has to fix it if I blow it. So I want to err on the side of caution.

You do also have to watch over heating the exaust side of the turbo too. There just happens to be a good spot to mount the egt sensor just before the turbo that gives you a good overall reading. Also a egt sensor lets you see how cool the exaust is before shut down, you want to let it get all the excessive heat build up out of the engine before shutdown. If not after shut down when the oil stops flowing after shutdown it will coak on in the oil passages in the turbo due to boiling from excessive heat thus leading to premature turbo bearing failure.

Diesel-hotrod sites have great information, but modern diesel engines & turbos have better metalurgy & can sustain higher EGT than our engines can.

If you pay close attenion to the EGT you can take your foot off the pedal if things get too hot, but a Digital gauge can turn on a light or a second low-air buzzer to warn of overheating.

A long (3-4 minute) uphill pull on a hot day with a hot engine will produce EGT's 100-150degrees higher than you're seeing normally. I know some guys hate to see higher engine rpms, but the turbo blows a lot more air at 2500rpm than 2300. More air means cooler temps & hopefully enough power that the governor can maintain the speed the pedal's demanding without running at full fuel. You're also not reading the tachometer right from the driver's seat- park the truck & set the hand throttle at 2500 from the driver's seat, then lean over & look at the gauge straight on & it'll show 2300 or so.