Another HF54 conversion

I started my power steering conversion this weekend. I am using the Ross HF54 power steering box, the 8.5" pitman arm, 5-ton pump, and a custom drag link.

I did not have to move the engine to remove the old steering box. I just pulled the column, removed the cover, pounded out the sector shaft, and removed the box.

I had the frame stiffener holes machined locally using the CAD drawing Jon created. I lined up the frame stiffener to the old steering holes and enlarged/drilled the holes. I used a homemade compass to draw the hole in the frame for the HF54 box and cut it with a torch. The opening in the frame stiffener had to be enlarged for my steering box which had a stepped sector shaft.

I had the drag link made locally which fits commonly available tierod ends. It is 1018 (mild steel) but the OD is 1-5/8" which results in a minimum wall thickness of 1/4".

More to follow in a few weeks....

Looking good keep up the pics.

This is on my "to do" list. I'm weighing several options but the HF54 seems to be the best overall.

What are you going to use for a column?

Looks great.
Why are there two frame stiffeners in the first picture?
Do you need two?

quarkz said:

Looks great.
Why are there two frame stiffeners in the first picture?
Do you need two?

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One for my brother's truck.

Made some progress this weekend and got the box installed and functional. I am using a 4-port Ross HF54 box with the ram assist ports blocked off. The column is gamma goat with 6-series farm pto shaft and u-joints. The drag link is a custom sleeve, off the shelf tie rod ends, and clamps from a tie rod sleeve. I am confident that, if you have all of the parts, this can be done in a weekend using the frame stiffener as a template.

Still trying to work all of the air out of the system. A read of the HF54 rebuild manual today indicates that the box needs to be worked through the full travel so that the relief poppet can let trapped air out; next trip. The spin on filter is temporary until I can determine/find a filter for the reservoir.

As it sits, it doesn't have enough power for 395 tires. The box twists the frame/engine up trying to turn but doesn't. A 1500 psi pump and shorter pitman arm would help but it seems that the best solution is ram assist. Kind of curious to hear what the other users of this box find with their installation...

Someone has mentioned using a gamma goat column before. How does it bolt up to the cab? Got any pics of the steering wheel?

Gringletaube is running this setup and I think the same size tires. He talks like his steers fine. If it's trying to twist the frame I'd say you have problems. A ram assist would be pretty easy to do.

The gamma goat column ends up with the steering wheel a little closer to the dash than stock. The horn wiring box keeps it from being slid towards the driver. Not a big deal for me and it would be improved with a smaller steering wheel. It fits in the dash mount and is held at the firewall with a u-bolt and a bent piece of flat sheet. The biggest issue is mating the internal splines of the gamma goat to something usable. As it turned out, the stock Ford steering column shaft which fit into the oem Ford lower u-joint, exactly fit the gamma goat column.

Gringeltaube is using a shorter pitman arm and a 1.5kpsi pump. I think that I need to get a different pump. It tries to steer (lifts the frame a little bit) but these tires seem to present a higher load than this box would normally see.

Nice work!

• Column from a Gama-goat: that was m35tom's suggestion.
• Air bleeding the system should be completed after only a few times steering full right/left. Best if front axle is jacked up while doing so. The system will not develop its full power if you still got air trapped.
• Also, that looks to me as being the stock Ford pitman-arm which is 9" center to center. If you had a shorter one, 7 - 7.5"; that will help a lot, possibly not needing the ram then.
• For reference I'm running the 14.5" Conti radials, which are 1.5" narrower than the 395s, but still carry the full weight of a typical MF W/W truck. And I can asure this: with engine idling a child could turn the wheel of this (my second truck, avatar pic) lock to lock - that on paved ground, with tires @ 50psi... For comparison, my first one is all the same, except for the pitman arm. That part remained stock at 9" and NOT indexed (1tooth CW) like the latter. Steering fully right is almost impossible while standing still on paved surface....

G.

Below:

gringeltaube said:

Nice work! Thanks!

• Column from a Gama-goat: that was m35tom's suggestion.
• Air bleeding the system should be completed after only a few times steering full right/left. Best if front axle is jacked up while doing so. The system will not develop its full power if you still got air trapped. I noticed that it always steers right fine but left tends to jerk occasionally. There still has to be air in the box. I do plan to remove the pitman arm and work it back and forth. The rebuild manual states in bold black letters that it needs to be worked to actuate both poppet valves.....
• Also, that looks to me as being the stock Ford pitman-arm which is 9" center to center. If you had a shorter one, 7 - 7.5"; that will help a lot, possibly not needing the ram then. This one is 8.5" Measured it several times; appears to have been drilled closer to the sector shaft.
• For reference I'm running the 14.5" Conti radials, which are 1.5" narrower than the 395s, but still carry the full weight of a typical MF W/W truck. And I can asure this: with engine idling a child could turn the wheel of this (my second truck, avatar pic) lock to lock - that on paved ground, with tires @ 50psi... For comparison, my first one is all the same, except for the pitman arm. That part remained stock at 9" and NOT indexed (1tooth CW) like the latter. Steering fully right is almost impossible while standing still on paved surface.... My 395s are at ~30 psi which probably contributes to the difficult steering. It was nearly impossible to steer with manual steering. Higher pressures and I get stuck in the snow. My brother's truck with 900:20 and the same weight steers very easy with manual steering.

G.

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A 1.5kpsi pump would increase force by 50% and would be an easy next step. I'm pretty sure that I'm working against the pump relief with nearly any tough turn....

What series/yr of ford parts did u use?

W_S, lots of info here... https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?15916-power-steering-deuce-3.html#post488815


G.

Jason, how do you know the current pump configuration is less than 1.5k pressure and would it be possible to raise the pump operating pressure by selecting a stiffer relief spring?

Rick

rchalmers3 said:

Jason, how do you know the current pump configuration is less than 1.5k pressure and would it be possible to raise the pump operating pressure by selecting a stiffer relief spring?

Rick

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Rick,

The pump is stamped with a code indicating flow, pressure, etc. I am not sure how to raise the pump pressure to a controlled and exact 1500 psi. It would also be prudent to make sure that my existing pump is actually 1000 psi. The "new" pump that I bought was a "rebuilt" at best. Seems easier to just buy a new pump for $150. Buying surplus stuff is a crap shoot. At least the box is new.

Jason

Hey Jason
I have been driving my truck around and when im stopped i can turn the wheel one handed lock to lock with out a problem. Underway the truck steers with one finger.

Welder Sam said:

What series/yr of ford parts did u use?

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The box and pitman arm was for an LN series Ford truck. I really can't speculate on year as there wasn't much left of the truck.

I would like to know where you got your Ps pump and mounting to multy fuel at.

cjtroutt said:

I would like to know where you got your Ps pump and mounting to multy fuel at.

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I'm not really happy with the pump assembly that I got so I don't want to send you there.

Running the numbers for the 1kpsi vs 1.5kpsi pump and the short (7.5") vs long (8.5") pitman arm shows a 1000 lb increase in force for the high pressure pump and short pitman arm. Most of that is due to the higher pressure pump.

I lioke your study method.

You can sort of intuit your results by viewing them as a change in percentage. 50% pressure change vs 10% leverage change for example.

Is there anything on the net regarding changing the valving of those boxes or are they a closed assembly?

Rick