Started filtering WMO

You can see in the 2 attached pictures I rigged up a gravity feed WMO filtering system this weekend.

I have an open top 55 gal drum up high with a 400 micron strainer in the top. In the drum are 2 super duper strong magnets next to the shower drain I put in the bottom. Directly below is a red plastic drum to catch any leakage that may develop over time. The clear hose from the shower drain goes to the duda diesel filter bags with pipe adapter. I have a 25, 10, and 5 micron bags all stacked together.

I'm getting some wicking up and out of the bags onto the wood holder I made for them but it call tracks into the barrel below. I put 20 gallons in through it by hand and it went fast but I'm sure that won't last as the filters clog up.

That is as far as I got. From there I guess I can go right into the fuel tank but I'm still worried about getting any water out. All I have is time so I can let it sit for a week or more to separate naturally.

I'm working on a motor and pump set up from things laying around so I could buy water separating fuel filters at tractor supply to pump the oil through before it goes to the truck tank.

In the back there I have two 275 gal home fuel tanks I will use for storage after I figure a way to clean out the crud sitting in the bottom of them.

Just when I thought I was getting things done I found another project!

And for the bean counters...

Filter bags and barrel strainer: $60
4 Red plastic drums: $52
2 275 gal tanks: $50
Lowes' shower drains and pipe: $28
Steel drums and WMO: Free
Gas/time spent picking up WMO: ~$75

Not too bad so far.

My filter option

The unit I use ("made in America") cost less than £100 , comprising Canisster, filter Cartridges and piping. I found a picture, and it really is a simple layout. (as you see).
The filter Cartridges are 5 and 1 (one!) micron. Used Auto trans fluid is what I filter through. I have not used the 5 microns yet , just put it through the one microm cartridges. Takes overnight to do 1000 ltrs. Easy to mount activate and collect. The paperwork is at another location. But the cartridges are PS1-20C Spun Polypropylene. (fits pentek (formerly U.S. Filter) Cuno, Filterite, Kemflo, U.S.Water, Water Resourses, Aqua, and Harmsco Vessels. 5 and 1 micron nomonal. Temp. range. 40-145*f. 4.4-62.8*c. (nominal)

I'm still filtering through mine but the hand pump is getting old. I'm working on making an electric oil pump.

Filter bags are still moving oil through fairly quickly also.

And STILL not sure how I want to remove water, other than letting it sit and pulling oil off the top.

Put a heating element in one of the metal 55gal drums. Free water will settle out, but emulsified water(mixed in with the oil) will not.

gimpyrobb said:

Put a heating element in one of the metal 55gal drums. Free water will settle out, but emulsified water(mixed in with the oil) will not.

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How hot does the oil need to get for the water to separate satisfactorily?

I've got about 500 gallons in a tank that sat through a pretty hot summer last year.

Got over 110F ambient for a month.

Someone had mentioned gasoline being used as an effective means of breaking down emulsified oil/water.

I'll look for the reference... I've been reading everyone's posts with great interest planning my build. Thank you all for the information!

I've been making improvements.

I'm happily using a chevy motor oil pump and an electric drill to move oil around. No more hand pump!

I have the 275 gal red tank full of dirty oil waiting to be filtered, plus drums sitting around.

Last weekend I finished installing two 120v 1200W hot water tank heater elements I found at the mom and pop hardware shop, a temperature gauge from the scrap yard, and a snap switch (closed circuit at 180F, open circuit at 220F) from amazon.

Time to wire it up and start heating and filtering.

Also the really strong magnets that I put in my top oil drum, which you can see in the second picture, are covered with metal based sludge. They're working awesome.

Love the pics thanks for sharing and posting.. I thought I would post a few of mine so far. I also posted on another thread but thought it would be good to show here too. I am catching allot of "separated" water in the plastic filters from DudaDiesel. I got from 600 down to 75 micron with the bottom cut out of the bucket and top of drum.. So what's in my tank is down to 75 micron. My new "source" of oil is from a guy that changes oil on generators which is really clean since they rarely run. Then I plan on a 15 and 10 mic canister filters then into a 5 mic sock and into the fuel tank.. Here's the pics..

Looking good! Great idea on the super magnets. I need to get some and add them to the build pile. Fuel prices are motivational.

great!! do you have a close ups of the chev pump? how did you rig it up? what year and motor?

thanks!!

joshs1ofakindxj said:

I've been making improvements.

I'm happily using a chevy motor oil pump and an electric drill to move oil around. No more hand pump!

I have the 275 gal red tank full of dirty oil waiting to be filtered, plus drums sitting around.

Last weekend I finished installing two 120v 1200W hot water tank heater elements I found at the mom and pop hardware shop, a temperature gauge from the scrap yard, and a snap switch (closed circuit at 180F, open circuit at 220F) from amazon.

Time to wire it up and start heating and filtering.

Also the really strong magnets that I put in my top oil drum, which you can see in the second picture, are covered with metal based sludge. They're working awesome.

Click to expand...

I'm spoiled. I got tired of the filter bags. And p*ssed and complained about enough that my wife went and bought me a centrifuge system for my birthday last year. I have a drum with a 75 micron nylon mesh, metal housing filter that is washable, mounted in the "lid" of the drum. The centrifuge is also mounted on the top of the same drum. I pour my WMO through the mesh filter, into the drum, then spin it through the centrifuge. I also heat it with a small space heater. Works pretty good, although I am thinking about putting a couple of in line spin on filters after the pump I use to pump the finished product from my drum. Just in case.

When I was using the filter bags, they worked OK, but seemed to clog up pretty quickly. Maybe the oil I was getting was dirtier than I thought. Leaving the oil "rest" a week or so does seem to help with water separation. Plus, being careful about where and whom you get the oil from helps a lot too. Oh, try diluting the WMO with about 20% or more diesel, kero, or home heating oil, before straining, it will really help speed things up.

No matter how you "clean" the oil, we definitely save money at the pumps. Nice looking set up, I used to work through 5 gallon buckets

I'm spoiled. I got tired of the filter bags. And p*ssed and complained about enough that my wife went and bought me a centrifuge system for my birthday last year. I have a drum with a 75 micron nylon mesh, metal housing filter that is washable, mounted in the "lid" of the drum. The centrifuge is also mounted on the top of the same drum. I pour my WMO through the mesh filter, into the drum, then spin it through the centrifuge. I also heat it with a small space heater. Works pretty good, although I am thinking about putting a couple of in line spin on filters after the pump I use to pump the finished product from my drum. Just in case.

When I was using the filter bags, they worked OK, but seemed to clog up pretty quickly. Maybe the oil I was getting was dirtier than I thought. Leaving the oil "rest" a week or so does seem to help with water separation. Plus, being careful about where and whom you get the oil from helps a lot too. Oh, try diluting the WMO with about 20% or more diesel, kero, or home heating oil, before straining, it will really help speed things up.

No matter how you "clean" the oil, we definitely save money at the pumps. Nice looking set up, I used to work through 5 gallon buckets

rolling18 said:

great!! do you have a close ups of the chev pump? how did you rig it up? what year and motor?

thanks!!

Click to expand...

Here is all the info and some pictures: Alternative Fuel: Waste Vegetable Oil ( Wvo ) Gear Pump - Yahoo! Voices - voices.yahoo.com

Alternate WMO Pump

1st post - Proud owner of a M35A2C for 8 days now!

I filter my WMO with a Gpi Filter at Tractor Supply (10 micron) and pump it with 1/2" Classic Style Non-Metallic . Not sure what the pump costs, but they're dead reliable and everyone has an air compressor.

I doubt the Deuce could supply enough CFM to run the pump.

I have a dedicated M105 for WMO storage, am still working out the optimum tank configuration.

Hughdidi, I love the filter link from TSC... I didn't know they had that kind of stuff. They have a water sep/filter too. I'll probably use an electric pump from TSC since I have to go there for the other parts. Great link, thanks!

i am reading and searching but i haven't really found the "cleanest" set up. Like everyone else I can get plenty of wmo and who doesn't want to run their rig for free.

What i dont have is a barn that i can set up a juryriged set up. I need to find something that is "neat and presentable" if possible.

any suggestions?

crazywelder72 said:

i am reading and searching but i haven't really found the "cleanest" set up. Like everyone else I can get plenty of wmo and who doesn't want to run their rig for free.

What i dont have is a barn that i can set up a juryriged set up. I need to find something that is "neat and presentable" if possible.

any suggestions?

Click to expand...

google search "black diesel processor" or "waste motor oil processor" these wil definatly cost more but are basiclly all-in one- setups or you can copy what they have done if you have the know how. but at least gives some great pictures and ideas

Thanks for the tips.. I will let you know if i find anything worth making

CW72, Haven't seen Neat and Presentable, WMO is usually Messy and Unpresentable except to those who find it fun and exciting!

How you making out with your Airpack?

My garage is enough of a mess as is and because of the welding / machining equipment i want to keep this set up outside.

I am not sure where i am on the airpak issue.. The latest update was i bled a tiny amout of brake fluid from the bleeder at the airpak. That was enough to release the brakes and shut off the brake light. I worked the pedal a few times and the pedal felt great and they weren't sticking but the switch was. But when i cracked that bleeder again the light went out. I dont know if this is a master cylinder or airpak issue. seperate of that i dont know if the switch is working properly or did that get damaged also.