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1028 vs. 1008 - how accurate is GL's information?

MarcusOReallyus

Well-known member
4,524
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113
Location
Virginia
Well, well, well!

Well!


I was reading a thread on here today that got me scratching my head. See, they were talking about weight capacity of the various CUCVs, and the info didn't match up with what I thought I knew.

Sooooo, I did some more reading.


Hmmmm. I was wrong.


Wait a minute. Maybe GL was wrong?


See, I thought I had bought an M1008. That's what GL said I was buying.

But the data plate clearly said it had a 3600 # payload capacity.

:confused: :confused: :confused:

Soooo,when I went out this evening for a walk with my lady love, I stopped and opened the door, and for the first time, took a good look at the data plate inside the driver's door. Guess what it says!


M1028.



Now, is someone going to come along and tell me my data plate is wrong and GL was right?




Or am I entitled to a great big YAHOO! here?



:mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:
 

ODdave

New member
3,213
38
0
Location
lansing michigan
1028's are easily identified. Look at the rear spring pack. If it has the overload on the top of the pack, (a single thick spring that is noticably seperate from the other pack) and has its own contact pads on the frame, its a 1028.
 

cliffyp

Member
328
3
18
Location
Brownsville, Texas
Similar thing happened to me. When I bought my 1028 a year ago I didn't know anything about CUCV's except there was a truck and a blazer. I thought all the trucks were '08's. The seller that I bought it from didn't know anything about it either, he didn't even advertise it as MV. It was just a CL post for a "heavy duty" truck.

As I learned about the CUCV's from reading here I realized there were different types. I looked at my data plate and saw that my payload was 3600 and gross max was 9400. In the CUCV FAQ thread I read the following about VIN #'s:

4th digit = GVWR/Brake System
-- B = 3001 - 4000
-- C = 4001 - 5000
-- D = 5001 - 6000
-- E = 6001 - 7000 Hydraulic
-- F = 7001 - 8000
-- G = 8001 - 9000
-- H = 9001 - 10000
-- J = 10001 - 14000
-- K = 14001 - 16000

My 4th digit is "H" 9,001-10,000 so I guess my data plate corresponds correctly to my VIN, so I guess that means I have an M1028. I was also pleasantly surprised.

Edit Addition: I forgot about the overload spring. That was what first clued me in. I read a thread where they were talking about them and I thought, "I have those too!"
 

Castle Bravo

Hundredaire Socialite
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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63
Location
Arizona
Sometimes the doors get switched around too. One of the 1028s I was looking at when I bought mine had a door from a 1009 on it with the 1009 dataplates.
 

MarcusOReallyus

Well-known member
4,524
811
113
Location
Virginia
Hey, I know how you feel. Right now I have a 1028 sitting in the driveway waiting for me to get it into daily driver condition. My civvyChevy left me stranded a couple of weeks ago and had to be towed, and it's down until I get the tool to make the correct GM fuel line flare. The day after IT died, my family van died when I tried to leave work. I spent that evening and all the next day in my employer's parking lot pulling the fuel tank (breaking some rusty holding straps in the process and McGuyvering it back together) and replacing the fuel pump. Meanwhile, I'm driving my Jeep and hoping its flexplate will hold together long enough to get the civvyChevy on the road again so I can park the Jeep and replace the flex plate, repair the window switches, and figure out why it won't start when it's hot weather, which has left me stranded a dozen times or more this summer. :( (Icing the computer gets me going again, so at least I know where to look.)

4 vehicles, one running reliably again, and one on the ragged edge of disaster, two not drivable.

I can use some good news on the vehicle front for a change, and this will work! :D
 
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