found m35a1 what am I in for

thanks but i am going to stay away from the singles over priced tires. i like 2 lose one but you have one more keep on trucking. i am not looking to go full hot rod on this rare m35a1 but only bring it back. and upgrade some overlooked parts like that sprag t case. and in time give it a new OD paint yes i did research that sprag t case. and from what i see i am not going to like it but will deal with it if i can not replace it with a air t case.

i am going to buy the m35a1 can some one tell me the best way. to give it a bit more speed and drop the RPM. with out doing to much to it. in this day and age i like to do 65 mph with rpm not over 2000 if i can do that. i plan to keep it on the road and out of the mud. can i some how put a eaton 10 speed or a rockwell 10 speed ? i am a truck driver and i float the gears i do not like synchronized transmission.

and thanks for all you guys help​

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Buy a new International and paint it OD green. Do you really want to do 65 in a truck that was designed to go barely 45 and built almonst 60 years ago? Not trying to be rude just practical. They shake, shimmy, are loud, and drive like a pig at 10mph. Doing 65 is asking for lot of trouble. Again, just think about what you are asking it to do. Welcome to the site.

Russ from Albany.

Atomic said:

Buy a new International and paint it OD green. Do you really want to do 65 in a truck that was designed to go barely 45 and built almonst 60 years ago? Not trying to be rude just practical. They shake, shimmy, are loud, and drive like a pig at 10mph. Doing 65 is asking for lot of trouble. Again, just think about what you are asking it to do. Welcome to the site.

Russ from Albany.

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Consider Russ' suggestion. You are currently looking at a truck that was built for running slowly, on unpaved roads or off road. You do not want to do that. It has a five speed synchronized tranny which you do not like. You need a top speed that is at least 10mph, probably 15-17mph, above what is suggested for sustained operations.
You are looking at losing the drive train and, ideally, upgrading the brakes.
It appears that if you were to look at a different truck altogether, you might be better served and your money would go a longer way. Maybe find a 900-series with a blown tranny and make it a standard shift.

Red I see you have a lot of replies, so here's my two bits. If you want a rare truck to fix up great but don't ruin it by changing it and hot Rodding it. I don't knock someone for wanting to change a truck that's not rare but don't gut a rare one please. The sprague transfercase and the motor are two of the big things that make this a rare truck. You asked for opinions but it is your money.

Csm is right. Fix it up and enjoy it for what it is!! What I don't understand is that some were trashing the 427 as un reliable and problematic. Well if you look in the history books, so was it's replacement!! As for parts, just ask around all the old surplus dealers. No demand for 427 so why advertise. I bet you will find that parts like pistons and sleeves for the 427 will be cheaper than the 465. It's sad on how much 465 parts have gone up! Personally you have a great find and I would love to have it in my collection.

That is a really neat truck. You see so few A1's like that. It has all the neat stuff-the early taillights with separate blockouts, the add-on tach, etc.

I would definitely keep that mostly stock. An upgrade to air shift isn't the end of the world (especially if you hide the switch somewhere like the glovebox) and m35-tom's 5th gear overdrive kit will bump your speed up (do a search, you'll find it easily).

UP DATE
well i just got the m35a1 with work and all. planing was fubar.

https://www.youtube.com/user/redneck2995?feature=mhee


i plan on keeping it as is and fixing her up.

R0E0D said:

I plan on keeping it as is and fixing her up.

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Good decision, I don't think you will regret it. Slow is good, it prepares you for your Senior years.

i have some tm's but it is the part one. i have looked all over google for a repair TM one that shows a guys showing you how to take something a part like. first off the brake drum. newer trucks i take the dual's off and i can pull the drum off. to me it just taken a shot at this. looks like i take off the torque hub pull the hole thing a part to get to the brake pads. can any one help me find that repair tm for the m35a1? i think an m35a2 tm will work just as good. that is how a look look for things on google m35a2 ______________ most of the time i find what i am looking for.

It will be Cool all prettied up and repaired and rebuilt. If you keep it bone stock original, It'l be the Belle of the Ball. If you want to make it go faster, get a nice lowdeck or landoll trailer and load that duece on it and that duece'll go as fast as you dare.

I watched the video. Cool Truck! IT RUNS!!!! why change a thing, too expensive, why not just PM it, check levels, fix and repair the rotten rubber, rinse and repeat. If you keep it in the shed, you don't need a top on the truck. Definitely a good score, Oh do you have a tittle?

If you want to hot rod something, hot rod a whistler.

R0E0D said:

i have some tm's but it is the part one. i have looked all over google for a repair TM one that shows a guys showing you how to take something a part like. first off the brake drum. newer trucks i take the dual's off and i can pull the drum off. to me it just taken a shot at this. looks like i take off the torque hub pull the hole thing a part to get to the brake pads. can any one help me find that repair tm for the m35a1? i think an m35a2 tm will work just as good. that is how a look look for things on google m35a2 ______________ most of the time i find what i am looking for.

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The -20P and -34P TM's have the breakdown of the parts , not as nice as pictures but you will get used to it .

trukhead said:

It will be Cool all prettied up and repaired and rebuilt. If you keep it bone stock original, It'l be the Belle of the Ball. If you want to make it go faster, get a nice lowdeck or landoll trailer and load that duece on it and that duece'll go as fast as you dare.

I watched the video. Cool Truck! IT RUNS!!!! why change a thing, too expensive, why not just PM it, check levels, fix and repair the rotten rubber, rinse and repeat. If you keep it in the shed, you don't need a top on the truck. Definitely a good score, Oh do you have a tittle?

If you want to hot rod something, hot rod a whistler.

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yes i do have a tittle the first time i had every thing planed out. and the tittle was no good to me had to be fixed. then my job got in the way a good month. be for my job gives me a brake to go get her and. she was ready to leave as well pulled on to the transport on her own power. and starts every time i ask it to with no hesitation. with new battries in stalled. one day once she is all fixed up i will buy 2 TL6 battries for her

yes i do have a tittle the first time i had every thing planed out. and the tittle was no good to me had to be fixed. then my job got in the way a good month. be for my job gives me a brake to go get her and. she was ready to leave as well pulled on to the transport on her own power. and starts every time i ask it to with no hesitation. with new battries in stalled. one day once she is all fixed up i will buy 2 TL6 battries for her

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What?

sorry about that i was going on a 15 hr day

ROEOD, the manuals you want are the TM 9-2320-235-series, these cover the LDS 427-2 powered deuces.

TM 9-2320-235-10 operator´s manual
TM 9-2320-235-20 organizational maintenance including electrical repairs and scematics
TM 9-2320-235-35 DS/GS or depot maintenance.

There is little information about the engine in these, so you need the engine manual too.
TM 9-2815-204-35 engine and clutch

There is no info about injection pump, turbocharger, starter, or generator repair in the engine manual, this is covered in:
TM 9-2910-223-35 injection pump
TM 9-2990-201-45 turbo
TM 9-2920-236-35 starter
TM 9-2920-209-34 generator).

If you can not find the TM 9-2320-235-series manuals, or not all of them, the later TM 9-2320-209- series will do. This series of manuals consolidates the old TM 9-8022 gasser manuals and the TM 9-2320-235 manuals into one series, and adds information for the -A2 deuces with LD/LDT 465 engines.
Then there is the TM 9-2320-361- series, these are for the -A2 deuces only, gas engine or LDS 427-2 powered trucks are not covered. You can use these manuals, as long as you are aware of the differences between the -A1 and -A2 trucks.

There is a separate parts manual for each repair manual with the same number with a -P suffix.

Now that right there, is a darn good post.

Just a quick update so far r drive axel has got cleaned new brake cylinders new brake shoes repack bearings on to the FR axel.

UPDATE i know some will enjoy this.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oI_BrzzSdao

VERY nice, working brakes sure do make things more fun. Seems a little low on power in both vids, my A1 feels considerably quicker than my A2. New fuel filters and a clean out of the airfilter may be in order.

yes i have not yet got to buy a PM kit for it that is on the to do list.