best way to fit doors to cab?

Got my cab back, all painted and pretty. Time to start putting it all back together. But went to hang the doors today and got hung-up instead. What's the best way to adjust the fit? Would be easy if I needed to shim them backwards, but the doors on both sides need to go forwards. Can bend the brackets forward. Or maybe put shims (washers) behind the brackets on the inside? Only thing is, don't think that's going to move them far enough forward. Wouldn't be such a big deal, but I want to get the doors shimmed right so I can install weatherstripping to help with the noise and heat (AC). So I'm thinking that bending the brackets is looking like the only option. Just wanted to ask before I give that a try tomorrow morning., to make sure I'm not missing anything, or haven't done something wrong.


Here are the dimensions that I'm working with, taken as shown in the pic:

door openings (cab) - 34.5" (+-) top/bottom on both sides

doors (length) - 34.25" top/bottom on both doors

distance from hinge (center) to back of door opening (cab)

• 33.5" left top
• 33.4125" left bottom
• 33.5625" right top
• 33.8125" right bottom

distance from hinge (center) to back of doors

• 33.625" left top
• 33.6875" left bottom
• 33.625" right top
• 33.6875" right bottom

Oh, and I realized that I installed the hinges backwards the first time. Switched the hinges around, but that didn't affect the fit.

I hang them... tighten all bolts... get as close as I can.. use a jack or 2x4 to adjust them, they will never shut like a civy truck door. You just get them as close as you can.


Its a MV.. dont over think things... all you will get is headache.

Who needs doors?

If you only shim the outer most 2 screws between the hinge and truck body that will cant the hinge the direction you want.......Almost every vehicle I have worked on or replaced doors, fenders, hoods and what not need to be shimmed to fit the vehicle. It is a very common practice in the auto body world AND at the time the vehicles are built.

Westech said:

I hang them... tighten all bolts... get as close as I can.. use a jack or 2x4 to adjust them, they will never shut like a civy truck door. You just get them as close as you can.


Its a MV.. dont over think things... all you will get is headache.

Click to expand...

Thanks! That sounds like a lot better idea than removing the hinges to bend them. Dunno why I didn't think of that. Especially since this wouldn't be the first time I've had to use a hydraulic ram to 'adjust' things on this vehicle.

Regarding overthinking things, have you see this motorhome I'm building?

eagle4g63 said:

If you only shim the outer most 2 screws between the hinge and truck body that will cant the hinge the direction you want.......Almost every vehicle I have worked on or replaced doors, fenders, hoods and what not need to be shimmed to fit the vehicle. It is a very common practice in the auto body world AND at the time the vehicles are built.

Click to expand...

The doors need to go forward, so I'd actually need to put shims on the inside, but I tried that and it wasn't enough. Plus the dash mounts to those hinges and I don't want that to be all wonky.

I just went through all of these door alignment issues with my my road tractor project.
Having stripped everything on the doors down, and using parts from other trucks,i ended up with a way less desirable fit.
I found that there are two different style hinges, one style have 90° limited throw, and has a little less thickness, the other style has more throw.
I also used shims,i cut them out of 1/8th" thick aluminum sheet,shaped them in the shape of an E so they will slide in behind the hinge. I'll post so pics.

Thanks Jess, you just reminded me I need to do something with my M109A3 project. Haven't touched her in over a year

Doors are all pretty much the same size, but the door openings do vary a lot!
Slightly bending the hinges in a press is possible since they are soft material. I have done that more than once and IMHO it is the most elegant solution.

BUT... that method - or shimming - won't help if for example the pass. door doesn't shut while already touching the MG-leg bracket. Then the best solution IS the ram... and that way re-gain those 4-5mm. No more than that; otherwise you might end up with doors flying open! (been there...!)


G.

Think that if I use a hydraulic ram to adjust the hinges while they're installed, that would probably be OK though, yeah? Seems like those hinges will bend way before the cab will start getting twisted out-of-shape. Like the idea of doing it on the vehicle because I can push-check-push-check until I get it perfect. Or as close as I can...

Jesse, of course you can give it a try but..........

I did check your measurements: 34.5" and 34.25", respectively, IS correct. It also means that the front door posts and the cab rear wall are parallel to each other.
Still unclear IF after all bodywork the door openings remained square on both sides? Ideally you would end with a 1/8"-gap, on all 3 sides. You probably checked that already, or measured diagonally?

Now, IF the openings are OK and the only thing is the doors hanging down I would not apply to much force (as I think you may need to...), because that could alter (increase) the 90º angle - floor/ rocker panel to front door post!

My suggestion: better adjust the hinges... by bending them, or shimming!



Edit: just looked at that 3rd pic again... Seems that on that side the whole door needs to simply move forward. Adjust those hinges, only!


G.

Yeah G, the openings are square-ish and the doors fit in the openings nicely without the hinges. That's the one thing I did check before having everything painted. Just tried bending the hinges with a hydraulic ram while they were installed and that's a big no-go. Started to spread the door opening. Not really spreading, so much as twisting the A-pillar. Would probably work alright for the lower hinges, but the uppers need heat - or to be removed and bent in a press.

I had to heat then bend my door hinges,
Your truck looks nice

When i rebuilt my truck, i found my hinges bent from being opened hard. While the hinges are out, take the hinges to a work bench and pound them back to their proper shape. they should fold together very nicely. Once I did that, my doors close perfectly and latch with little effort.

The only way to get them to fit right is to bend them I used a crescent wrench and bent the sleeves the pin goes through so I didnt have to take the hinges off the cab but there is a lot of trial and error but it can be done.

Drilled out to accept a ss 5/16" bolt, shim , two different style hinges.

WOW! What just happened?
I thought I was on a military truck site, but I must have been redirected to a StreetRod site by mistake.

...says the guy who lives in the Ozarks. Bwahaha.

I'm glad you didn't take it personal.
It's not my fault, I was born with the smartass gene.

That didn't work out too well. Adjusted the first hinge without any trouble, but the second one snapped as soon as I put the slightest little bit of pressure on it. On closer inspection, realized that it looks like there are two different types of hinges, and I have two of each. One style has a gentle bend in it, and looks like it's made out of formed sheetmetal. That one bent easily. The other has a sharp bend in it and is obviously a cast part. That's the one that shattered. So... Anybody have any of the sheetmetal-style hinges laying around? I need two.

Wonder if the result would have been any different if I'd tried bending with heat.