Had 2-3 hours to work on it today. Got the rest of the interior trim pieces out, got the dash out and started working on cutting back some of that creative wiring.
Here are some of the highlights.
I got the cracked door cards off - the two driver's side cards came off in one piece, the two passenger side cards came off in more than two pieces:
Pulled the dash cover off - there was a carpet over the dash when I bought the truck, but it was just hiding a bad dash, so it went in the "don't need it" pile:
Started taking a look at the wiring - first, pulled the battery. There is one wire for something aftermarket that had 4 splices in about 8 inches:
After I pulled the battery, I started tracing out the ground wire - the one that was attached to the battery goes straight to the alternator bracket (good in my mind). Then I started looking for the engine to chassis ground bond. Hmmm, can't find it on the engine anywhere... Oh here it is tucked under the radiator overflow bottle:
For those who don't understand why this is bad (and why I'm being so sarcastic about it), the ground bond is essential to provide a return path to the battery. Some will argue that the engine is grounded by the drive-train and the exhaust (which is more or less true) - however, if you have a 40Amp positive wire coming off the battery to feed a compressor, do you really want that 40 amps going through your rear-end gears or your fuel lines to get back to that alternator bracket? Sound safe? One of the most common problems with vehicle electrical systems is bad grounds. It leads to all kinds of problems like dim lights, gauges that show funny values when other accessories are turned on, and slow motors that burn out. Does this sound like most of the problems I described in the original recovery
Here is some more from the firewall - this is how NOT to wire a circuit breaker (note that only one terminal has connections - the other side is not connected, meaning that there is no protection from this breaker!):
You will also notice that it is wired with extension cord wire...
On to the dash board. I cut out the old alarm system, since I didn't like it... old gear,
wiring and sensor mounting, and just poor routing of everything (wire bundles were wrapped around other wire bundles, looked like a rush job). Here is what I found when I pulled the radio out of the dash:
Not too bad, it's what I'd expect from a WorstBuy/BuyMore or other "chain" stereo shop, but I'd be embarrassed to have my name on it, and I used to do Car Stereos. This was the real treat when I opened the dash - the passenger side air duct is not... um "original":
Your eyes do not deceive you - that is 3" corrugated landscaping drain pipe:
Yeah, so I knew I was going to pull the entire interior and start from scratch - no GM parts. I also wanted to gut the electrical and go with mostly M series parts, and it looks like I'm going to get my wish (this would fall under the "be careful what you wish for" category). The original wiring harness is for lack of a better word "butchered". There are splices on top of splices and wires that have burned through and other wires that were just abandoned.
For the Cummins engine I'm putting in, there are really only
four circuits I need to get right:
- Fuel shutoff solenoid (power/ground/start-trigger)
- Fuel lift pump (power/ground)
- Starter (power/ground/start-trigger) <-- I'm going to simplify this a bit by putting a larger solenoid that will power both the starter solenoid and the starter motor - no current will pass through the solenoid's contacts, it will simply move the armature into position on the flywheel ring.
- Alternator (power-out/ground/charge-light/ignition[aka "fuel shutoff solenoid power"])
For the lighting there are only a few circuits again:
- Left Turn Signal
- Right Turn Signal
- Brake Lights
- Headlights Low
- Headlights High
- Running Lights/Markers
- Blackout Drive
- Blackout Markers
- Dashboard Lights
- Dome Light(s)
These circuits come pre-configured in the M-series master light switch, turn signal switch, and turn signal flasher. The light fixtures likewise are pre-configured, except for the front turn signals which I am still thinking about (
[Update] - figured it out, found TruckLite 24V LED Amber F/P/T, which I'll slip inside the original front turn fixture [/Update]). Critical electrical devices are the
headlights, brake lights, and wipers (on/off, two speeds). Everything else is a luxury, and will be wired as such. Instead of running the wires in a split-loom plastic sleeve like the wires attached to the parking brake cable were - I'm going to run the wires inside a DOT air-brake hose, and used water tight fittings on both ends. This will keep the wire from rusting and make it possible to replace them afterwards without pulling new split-loom. All electrical circuits will be getting a ground return as well rather than relying on the body and frame as a return path. I should note that every body panel will get not one but two ground+RF bond ("Quiet," the project mantra doesn't just mean acoustic noise!!).
All of the gauges will be mechanical, so there are no senders to match to gauges (they will come attached for temperature, or be built-in for pressure).
Now before you ask, I'm keeping A/C on the truck - but, I'm not going to use the factory A/C (although it would be easiest). I can get the same performance out of a smaller unit and put it in the center console. I have been planning this route due to the very real possibility that I will need to fabricate a new firewall to fit the Cummins in there.
And I started pricing out the paint, I'm going to blow my budget a bit there. High zinc primer over everything!!!! Then intermediate filler primer, then top coat of CARC. I will attempt to get my hands on the CARC powder-coat for the frame and inside of body panels, so stay tuned for that... Still appear to be dodging the rust bullet on this truck.