power rear window?

Is it worth the trouble? I just drug my second one home.( tailgate with power window) My buddy gave it to me.. truck tranny gave out way down in a holler had to pack it out by myself though honeysuckle and monster bair patches. them civy tailgate are heavy. lol

I dont know if it would be worth it but I think it would be cool

From what I understand, it's much easier to use a tailgate with one already installed rather than install it it into a manual. If it works, sweet!

I am afraid I am getting carried away with it. I already have tilt steering, heated seats out of bmw, not to mention the turbo , 700r4 all the other crap I got into it

My suburban has the power rear glass. I hate almost everything about it, but it's not much worse than the standard crank-up type. One day I'm going to convert to the double rear doors with hinges on the sides. A pox on the tailgate!

Kinda of what I was thinking, just wanted to know how reliable they were. I don't need another electrical thing in weasel d*ck design of system.. lol

To be honest, the worst thing I can say about it is that it seems to be able to draw down a 1200CCA truck battery while it's running up or down. It hasn't actually killed the battery on it's own yet, but it rolls pretty quick to about the half way point, then slows down to a crawl. Does the same thing in both directions... And don't store your jumper cables near the tailgate!

That brings up a good question Oilcan-

If your regulator goes out when the window is up, how do you drop the windows to lower the gate to service it? Does it have some back up crank inside?

It wasn't that much trouble installing into a manual tailgate at all...took about an hour. I put it in before running the power and just took the part that connects from the motor to the regulator and attached a power drill to it to run it up and down. Now I have a switch on the dash for the window to go up and down.

As far as battery draw: I'm running 12v off of both batteries in parallel and don't notice a draw on them at all.

So, as far as I'm concerned it was completely worth it and just as simple as a complete manual install. Good luck.

i liked the one i had in my jimmy way back when...

southdave said:

Is it worth the trouble? I just drug my second one home.( tailgate with power window) My buddy gave it to me.. truck tranny gave out way down in a holler had to pack it out by myself though honeysuckle and monster bair patches. them civy tailgate are heavy. lol

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Did it on my son's. It is great to be able to roll the window up and down from the front seat without stopping to get out and walk around the truck. It does draw a lot of power, but if everything is right in the electrical system it should not kill the battery even when the truck is not running. There are less broken power windows than manual windows, but when it does break it is a PITA. You have to crawl in the back of the truck, remove the panel, disconnect the power cable and use a large screwdriver to work the window mechanism down. Did many of the civi and CUCV when they were new as I worked in a Chevy dealership as the "warranty" guy and got all the crap stuff when these trucks were new. Did more CUCV windows than I care to remember when the trucks were brand new.

BTW, get the factory wire from the donor truck that runs to the dash. It will take longer to get out than the tailgate did, but will make it much easier to install and get operational.

mr.travo said:

That brings up a good question Oilcan-

If your regulator goes out when the window is up, how do you drop the windows to lower the gate to service it? Does it have some back up crank inside?

Click to expand...

Clime over the rear sear with a screwdrver and take off the panel.

Update...
Since I origially posted this question I have developed a hybreed I install the window guts, left the plate and use a 3/8 cordless drill... hillbilly engineering my buttock lol.. I need to find a motor for it one of these days. but now I have A/C almost done so..