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Working on winch drive. *COMPLETED, **MORE** ADDED PICS!*

spicergear

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Today I spent two hours laying under the truck trying to figure out how or what to do to the driver's side exhaust pipe on the CAT that originally come straight down from the manifold flange about 12-14", then a mandrel bend 90*, then straight back until it clears the back of the spring hanger, then another mandrel 90* aiming the fumes out under the frame where they go to a flex pipe then to the added stack. The first drop from the manifold could not have been any more centered in the way of the winch drive if I'd have designed it. ...oh wait, poop...I did. And, the PTO was in the way also so the pipe needed to be dealt with back there too. Anyway I either needed to bend the driveshaft around the pipe with a pillow block on a hanger somewhere...just a mess I wasn't looking forward to. I don't have anymore of the exhaust pipe I had originally used, (3.5"x .100"wall SS) so I had to make every move count. This is what I came up with. Each pic is from below or slightly beside the winch drive. WHEW!!! Oh, I've got 1/2" clearance from pipe to pan...might heat wrap...maybe. The driveshaft I'm using is going to be the driveshaft and slip yoke originally on a M715 modified a little bit. I'VE GOT A PLAN IN ACTION!!!

 

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Recovry4x4

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Hey Tom, the big M125 10 ton has a shaft on pillow blocks outside the frame then chains and sprockets from the PTO to the shaft and from the shaft to the Winch. I can't find a pic of this right now. I'm sure you've thought of the hysraulic drive too right? When does it get the rear winch?
 

spicergear

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Ken, I have two deuce Garwoods on my M715. The rear is PTO driven off the NP205 with a Muncie reduction PTO unit. The front I originally set up on hydraulics. I screwed up and didn't size the reservoir correctly and the system never worked well. I then picked up a 3053A PTO and ran a shaft to a 4 bolt flanged bearing housing on the motor side of the front crossmember with the shaft extending through with a sprocket then a pillow block so the sprocket had support on either side of it. I then chain drove it to the to a sprocket on the front Garwood. Had to take a small grinder and cut a keyway in to the Garwood's input shaft for the keyed sprocket. Set up works GREAT! I pulled some really heavy stuff and even stalled my 427 from about 1700rpm one time and didn't break anything.

If I come across another big winch 10K or 20K, I'll probably slap on in the back...unless that wrecker comes about. :D
 

spicergear

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Finished up the drive yesterday and got the linkage all figured out and made today. There just happens to be a factory M35 winch truck about 10 minutes from the farm close enough to the highway that a fella can jump off the highway, slide under it and get some quick reference dimension off the linkage pivot points and leave before he's noticed. :) The drive from PTO to winch consists of the following: PTO yoke, 1310 U-joint, slip yoke end of stock M715 front driveshaft, rest of driveshaft, 1310 U-joint, yoke pressed onto then welded to solid machined 1-7/16" shaft, 1-7/16" pillow block, shaft machined down to 1-3/8" and keyed, 1-3/8" diameter and keyed yoke, 14N U-joint, then finally custom 14N yoke with keyed 1-1/4" diameter shaft cut off and welded to 1-1/2" keyed opening from much larger yoke. Yep, I cut two in half to make one. You can see how the exhaust wraps right around the driveshaft.
<img src="http://img74.exs.cx/img74/57/p10900540mm.jpg" border="0">
<img src="http://img74.exs.cx/img74/8277/p10900554pn.jpg" border="0">
<img src="http://img74.exs.cx/img74/8043/p10900623gx.jpg" border="0">
<img src="http://img47.exs.cx/img47/4974/p10900602pg.jpg" border="0">

The linkage needed a main bracket fabbed up and I used a couple pieces of 2-1/2"x 7/16" flat stock fitted and drilled to mount where the factory bracket would be on the side of the master cylinder. The rest was somewhat 'eye-balled' and somewhat educated estimate from the quick measures taken from the other truck. I used a T-case shifter stick from a M715 and cut it in the middle and extended it up though the knock out in the floor. It ended up being just about as high as the T-case high-low shifter in high. It works great with minimal effort to bump past the detent in PTO shift rail. I'm real happy with it. Got a couple hundred (not positive how much yet...but it's a lot) feet of 5/8" cable spooled on tonight too. I picked up a heavy duty winch chain over the weekend too. 12' with 11/16" measured links.
<img src="http://img47.exs.cx/img47/9795/p10900588zo.jpg" border="0">
<img src="http://img47.exs.cx/img47/3135/p10900593bt.jpg" border="0">
<img src="http://img47.exs.cx/img47/6633/p10900638wh.jpg" border="0">
 

Recovry4x4

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Looks great Spicergear. I'm faced with the fact that I have to buy 300' of 5/8 and 200 ' of 1/2 for that dang pipeline truck. Always nice to have new cable though! Let me know how it works on the forst recovery!
 

spicergear

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I pulled logs with it today!!! It worked completely flawlessly! I pulled 6, 10' logs of diameter varying from 22"-26" up a very steep bank. The thing didn't even sweat. One time I hooked a tree with a log coming up the bank and it flat dragged the truck with only a little decrease in the CAT's engine speed that was just above idle. I'll prolly post a couple pics tomorrow night. I'm WAY happy with this thing!!!
 

spicergear

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Here's a couple of pics of the Logs staged at the top of the ravine after being winched up, two of the stump and root ball that after a half an hour decided to roll down the hill and nearly (like fricken REALLY close) take me out(!), the next of the truck with a good pic of the winch, heavy duty tow chain wrapped on bumper, and a good view (finally) of the driver's side stack and modified passenger side mirror brackets for a factory look.
The spec of orange is my hat.


The stump and Katie...about to sneeze.


The stumps path. Top left look for Katie's blue jeans, bottom right is the stump a little behind a big tree. It tumbled that hole distance on it's own and I'm at the bottom with the chainsaw running. It was a real close one.


Next is a drop side bed. :)
 

spicergear

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When the sticks get big like that they're thicker than our chainsaw bar is long and they're a royal one to cut up then muscle around to split. I take the big stuff like that that's not rotten and sell it to a small saw mill. All the stuff I'm winching out was blow down last year in a storm.

We have a John Deere 950 that my dad built a boom for not long after we got in in late '80. The boom goes to about 10'. I pull the logs to a level area then get a chain around one end of them. I slip the boom's hook into that chain then lift one side up. I then back the truck under, unhook the chain, then rehook the chain at the end on the ground. From there I lift it up again 'til that end is just higher than the bed, then back up and used the backbone of the boom to push them into the bed. I can usually get 3 logs across the bottom, then another 2 on top of those. That's usually good for about an 8,000# load if nothing is hanging out over the back. The picture I had posted with the truck loaded with the big logs sticking out the back got me over $400. I didn't think that was too bad for goofing around trying to justify owning these things. :)
 

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spicergear

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Nah...and hopefully PennDOT will never be NEAR my truck. There's a feedmill down the road about a mile and I strolled down there with the big load. After I unloaded I went back. 10,100# load, 12,500# truck. It's not often you see negative...or is it positive arch(?) on a spring that's upsided down to begin with. Heh,heh.

Oh, and if you go off road, like seriously articulate the rear with 10,000# on it...Memphis Equipment has rear bogie arm rubber bushings in stock.
 

Desert Rat

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SG,
Oops, I missunderstood what you said :shocked: :smhair: :blush: ( better than Mrs. Understood :eyes: , or worse :p , the dad, Mr. Understood :freaked: ) .
 
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