DampLemonade
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- Cannon AFB, New Mexico
Between my DMs and a couple responses on other threads, I figured I'd consolidate everything into one thread.
I replaced the fat old injection pump this last weekend and got everything working great. I know there's plenty of wisdom and experience in these threads but I wanted to share a couple things I learned just so they're documented for any new people doing this job in the future.
Firstly, I know I could've saved some money buying a pump rebuild kit, or sending it off to be refurb'd, but it was worth it to me to spend the extra money to get a shiny new one and only have my truck in a non-running state for a few hours instead of a few weeks.
The procedure itself is just as easy as everyone says it is. The TM covers everything. And to be honest, the worst part was scraping off the old crusty gasket material between the pump and the compressor. But even that was nothing a razor blade, some sandpaper, some Creed, and a Michelob couldn't solve.
For the four bolts that hold the pump to the compressor, especially the two hiding on the engine side, I found that Harbor Freight sells S-wrenches that fit around the pump perfectly and give you a lot more leverage than a stubby wrench, plus theyre cheaper and more useful than the official cummins pump wrench. And your risk of smashing your knuckles on the engine block is almost zero
That said, once torque is broken, a stubby wrench will give you more range of motion.
As I was prepping the new pump to put on, I did have some trouble getting the factory plug out for where the ether pressure switch threads in at the bottom. I elected to leave it plugged since I never used ether anyway, and the block heater does a much better job at getting the engine started. Maybe I'll regret it one day, but not today.
The new pump's main inlet did not have the little elbow adapter for the fuel primer line. Under normal circumstances I would've swapped it out with the one off the old pump, but that was one of the leaking spots on the old one and didn't want to risk any leaks on this new one. Instead, I gave the pump a healthy gulp of some two-stroke oil and diesel so it didn't have to start dry on the first go.
For both the ether switch and the primer line, I figured if they were important enough, the pump would've come with them. I am thinking to at least mitigate there not being a priming line now, I'll just pre-fill the fuel filters with some oil and diesel. After about 3 hours of work from start to finish, I cranked the truck and it fired right up. Good idle, great throttle response, and most importantly, NO LEAKS I couldn't find any torque specs for the 4 pump bolts holding it to the compressor (not that you could get a torque wrench on the engine-side bolts anyway). I just did my best to put them back at the same tightness it felt like they were before.
I still have yet to install the spin-on fuel filter kit. It was getting extremely windy outside, and the girlfriend was getting hungry inside. Maybe I'll get to the filters next weekend...
I replaced the fat old injection pump this last weekend and got everything working great. I know there's plenty of wisdom and experience in these threads but I wanted to share a couple things I learned just so they're documented for any new people doing this job in the future.
Firstly, I know I could've saved some money buying a pump rebuild kit, or sending it off to be refurb'd, but it was worth it to me to spend the extra money to get a shiny new one and only have my truck in a non-running state for a few hours instead of a few weeks.
The procedure itself is just as easy as everyone says it is. The TM covers everything. And to be honest, the worst part was scraping off the old crusty gasket material between the pump and the compressor. But even that was nothing a razor blade, some sandpaper, some Creed, and a Michelob couldn't solve.
For the four bolts that hold the pump to the compressor, especially the two hiding on the engine side, I found that Harbor Freight sells S-wrenches that fit around the pump perfectly and give you a lot more leverage than a stubby wrench, plus theyre cheaper and more useful than the official cummins pump wrench. And your risk of smashing your knuckles on the engine block is almost zero
That said, once torque is broken, a stubby wrench will give you more range of motion. As I was prepping the new pump to put on, I did have some trouble getting the factory plug out for where the ether pressure switch threads in at the bottom. I elected to leave it plugged since I never used ether anyway, and the block heater does a much better job at getting the engine started. Maybe I'll regret it one day, but not today.
The new pump's main inlet did not have the little elbow adapter for the fuel primer line. Under normal circumstances I would've swapped it out with the one off the old pump, but that was one of the leaking spots on the old one and didn't want to risk any leaks on this new one. Instead, I gave the pump a healthy gulp of some two-stroke oil and diesel so it didn't have to start dry on the first go.
For both the ether switch and the primer line, I figured if they were important enough, the pump would've come with them. I am thinking to at least mitigate there not being a priming line now, I'll just pre-fill the fuel filters with some oil and diesel. After about 3 hours of work from start to finish, I cranked the truck and it fired right up. Good idle, great throttle response, and most importantly, NO LEAKS
I couldn't find any torque specs for the 4 pump bolts holding it to the compressor (not that you could get a torque wrench on the engine-side bolts anyway). I just did my best to put them back at the same tightness it felt like they were before.I still have yet to install the spin-on fuel filter kit. It was getting extremely windy outside, and the girlfriend was getting hungry inside. Maybe I'll get to the filters next weekend...