Recent content by Broncoman

Ah a little welding and it should be good as new. [emoji38] Sorry to hear that, that’s hard to look at. Thanks for the info on the connector , I was afraid you had to release the clips from inside. I’ll just get everything for a filter change and do it all at once.

So the wire connector that goes through the side of the case for the kick down wire is leaking. Does the pan have to be dropped to get the connector out or will it snap out if pulled from the outside?

I did have that coming I guess. :-D I thought maybe it was for storing a troop cover or something like that never could find anything in the military manuals on it. Thanks.

Just curios as to what the front compartment under the bed of these trucks were for?

Does the water in fuel light still work, and i guess the truck starts ok? Mine done this about a week or two after i brought it home and to find out it was blowing the 20 amp fuse that controlled the GP, WIF light and such, after tracing it down I found the connector for the high idle switch...

From the sound of it having that much fire when you cross the terminals than I would say it's a bad connection or the starter is not up to par.

I got mine in Last Saturday, Thanks a lot.

Sent you a PM.

Something like this is what I was thinking of...

You may be able to get one off an older carburated ford car or truck from a salvage yard and make it work for you. They used something similar for advancing the idle when running A/C.

Due to the design of your T-case they can't be modified for a "twin stick" design to allow front axle only. The best choice is to get a hub conversion for the rear axle. You would have the option for lockouts, just like the front axle. This would be the easiest way to lock and unlock them, but...

either the solenoid is bad, or out of adjustment. Could even be a bad ground beleive it grounds thru the mount.

If the dash pad is not real bad you can get them to fit somewhat nice, but if the dash pad is REAL bad and has a lot of cracks and places that the dash is raised up they will not lay flat and can look crappy. We have one truck the dash just had a few small cracks and it looks prety good, but my...

If your going to have a body shop do the rust repair then just let them remove the dent, you could do more harm than good. But this would make a good time for some pratice also.

Mine had a dent in the same location too, just use a porta power with the small spreader and a 2x4 from under neath and you should be able to get most of it out. Also the long 2x4 that was mentioned in a above post maybe even make a " T " out of a 2x4 then you can slide it up between the bedside...