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Just a tidbit, the AIH will run for 2-5 minutes or longer on a cold start without a rapid warm up. Once cold air gets pulled thru there. My new alt is pulling 105amps for that long if it's <30 outside until the trans heats up.

Your ohms law is not obeying your command. Wattage is not constant, resistance is. If the full Load is 1892/24=78.8A, then V/I=R is 24/78.8=0.3044=R. At 22v, V/R=I = 72.3A only with motors (induction) will current go up when voltage drops.

I believe that is the inline fuse F3. My AIH lead has the same transition portion. F3 on the schematic has to be there since that cable only goes from LBCD to AIH.

'04 A1. I also had a few over voltage codes on the trans. It All began when the starter shorted. I still have to take the pulled Neihoff to the repair shop. if you do this swap double check the existing belt length before ordering a shorter one. I used the wrong length at first. So my...

That's why I deleted that center 12v tap. It's the equivalent of a floating neutral on a 240/120 system, prone to wild voltage swings. Poor design choice imo. I guess I could still add a diode set to the manual disconnect for overkill.

Again, Lateral Border of Cardiac Dullness. It's fact

Here's a cleaner version of my schematic if you want to contemplate options https://drive.google.com/file/d/1LMr24UUbCK_DgP2iWdfL4bBmeGhU4IHZ/view?usp=drivesdk

Agreed on the cables. They can easily be landed on the wrong terminals. That sounds clean. I just deleted things and added 12v victrons from x1 to x2. here is my edited Fmtv schematic...

I don't know how this could possible happen if batteries are connected. There's no real power sources in the cab circuitry even when the blower is coasting to a stop. Plus the alt is diode-protected to begin with, which is why no current flows in reverse from the batteries when the engine is...