flatbed military trailer

marchplumber said:

View attachment 465312View attachment 465313 The deuce does well with either of these loads. Got trailer from Iowa N.Guard. It's been a godsend.

God bless,
Tony

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Did the trailer come with those ramps or did you add them?

gimpyrobb said:

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?24739-M345-10-ton-Trailer

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Like in Gimpyrobb and porkysplace's links above, towing a flatbed equipment type trailer discussion in this link also.

http://steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?61850-HEMAT-vs-M345-vs-M1076-trailers

quickfarms, trailer came with ramps, but I am sure that they were added "in country" in the sand box. Welding is supreme! Was told by SFC who helped with recovery that they had to get rid of it cause it wasn't in their TOE. I brought it home from Iowa to central Illinois. Haven't had any problems. I added extra turn signals/stop lamps on the back/bottom of the ramps for easy viewing by following vehicle. LOVE the four landing legs! I have some pics somewhere of the ramps if you're interested. Let me know.

God bless,
Tony

Yup, ramp pics would be great!

This is the MT2000 trailer that I purchased out of Ft Meade four years ago. It is a 20-foot container trailer. However, I mounted a removable 20-foot aluminum bed with drop down sides on it. I removed the twenty folding seats but kept the ability to use the tarp and bows on the trailer. It makes the best hay hauling trailer that one would ever want. I pull it with an M35A3 and an M923A1. The trailer is air over hydraulic with 235-85R16 G tires. I just replaced the tires at the end of this haying season. The full weight capacity of this trailer exceeds the towing limits on both the Deuce and the 5-tonner. I use a drop deck Tow Master trailer behind these trucks for equipment hauling. Both trailers empty are under 6000 lbs. The Tow Master tops out at 25,900. I changed the lights on the Tow Master to 24-volt LEDS. It also had ABS on the trailer that required additional power from the trucks. The Tow Master also runs the 235-85R16 G tires. The Tow Master has a 24' deck. I would provide more photos but its just too darn cold outside to go do it.

A friend of mine has a 20ft. container trailer, his has full air brakes. I told him he should get a 20ft. flat rack for it. What a great trailer that would be perfect for a CUCV.

Fredo Corleone said:

A friend of mine has a 20ft. container trailer, his has full air brakes. I told him he should get a 20ft. flat rack for it. What a great trailer that would be perfect for a CUCV.

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I also have a 20 foot container chassis. I was thinking about getting a damaged 20 foot container and cutting it down to just the floor.

An ISO flat A Flatrack has a place for ISO locks and a picking hoop for the Oshkosh PLS

You may be better off with the M3 CROP flat rack...

quickfarms said:

I also have a 20 foot container chassis. I was thinking about getting a damaged 20 foot container and cutting it down to just the floor.

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A 20' container frame will be pretty weak if you cut the sides off of it. The sides are a load bearing member. Also, you could probably build a flat bed cheaper than you could buy a 20' container (they usually go for pretty good money). I'd either build a flat bed or pick up one of the ones Fredo posted.

Back to the OP, If I were to buy a trailer for the deuce I'd be looking at one of those 10K payload trailers with single tire (16") tandems. They usually weight between 4k-5k empty and pull much easier than the bigger dual tandem trailers.

I know the deuce is rated for a 10K towed load but I think it would handle a 14K-16K fine if the trailer has good brakes. It just might be a little slow on hills at 16K.

A M1061 would definitely handle the load and brakes are air over hydraulic so that is a match as well, but the height and lack of ramps are the primary issues. I had a M1061 and it was great behind a deuce, but high for a vehicle load.
Remember, they put a complete laundry unit on it including huge stainless washers and dryers, a 10kw generator, hot water heater thar was a multifuel, spinner, water pumps, overhead racks full of piping, electrical. Walkways and lots of other stuff.
It was actually over 10k net weight. Cheapest way to go if you can make decent ramps and a way to mount them.
I just loved that trailer!
The other option is to add a mount for a ball hitch and use a civilian trailer.
I've done that too but relied on my towing vehicle for all the braking.

The military has two flatbed trailers with lunettes, air brakes and 24v lights: The m1061 and something called the xck2000e1 which is really an intermodal chassis for 20' iso ocean freight containers so you need a flatbed with pinlocks to use it. Both are sold by gl from time to time.

M10671 trailerm 2000 pix

I just read something on Northern Tools concerning hydraulic disc or drum surge brakes. When you brake the tow vehicle the forward inertia of the trailer compresses a master cylinder which operates the trailer brakes. It has a defeat solenoid for backing up. I think the cost was $675 for the complete setup with brakes for one axle. That would save having to do the 12v/brake controller thing. You would just have to convert the bulbs to 24v and use a mil to civy trailer connector. The offer the kit in ball hitches or lunettes. I wonder if I could get Appalachian Trailer to build me one using surge brakes instead of the electric ones?

I always figured hanging a deuce bed on a bolster trailer would work pretty well.

Of course, I rebuilt an equipment trailer for my deuce to use to tow my WWII Dingo upon. New electrics, new brakes and some other work has worked well. I do need to make more mods to it to make it a bit more useful. Better lights, 2 more tail lights on the ramps and some additional tie down points would be nice. That and a spare tire carrier would be good.

The container trailer my friend has is a XCK2000E1. It is a 2010 when they brought it to DRMO they couldn't free the brakes so they dragged it, the tires were all worn flat. We all scratched our heads until Evil Dr. Porkchop figured it out, they just had the air line gladhands painted the wrong colors so the air brakes wounldn't release. We switched the lines and repainted the ends.

Dipstick said:

I wonder if I could get Appalachian Trailer to build me one using surge brakes instead of the electric ones?

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I'd just get them to build you one with straight air brakes. Much better than surge or electric and you've already got the air on the deuce. Most trailer manufacturers offer air brakes on their trailers.

Thanks for the ideas. It looks like I will have to go with a commercial trailer. I'm only wanting to haul 6,000 pounds worth of truck. I've got a friend that flat tows an M1009 with a towbar without issue behind his truck but I don't like the idea of doing that for anything over a few miles. He doesn't even drop driveshafts but I have my doubts about doing that to my truck. I even have a Hunter Medium towbar. I may just get a standard hitch with an acceptable hitch height to hook a civi trailer behind my truck. I'm not really worried about weight. Anyone who has followed my posting will know that my truck can run 45 in the hills with 23,000 pounds of towed weight behind it.

m16ty said:

I'd just get them to build you one with straight air brakes. Much better than surge or electric and you've already got the air on the deuce. Most trailer manufacturers offer air brakes on their trailers.

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An axle with air brakes costs significantly more than an axle with electric or hudrolic brakes.

m16ty said:

I'd just get them to build you one with straight air brakes. Much better than surge or electric and you've already got the air on the deuce. Most trailer manufacturers offer air brakes on their trailers.

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Absolutely. This is exactly what I'd do.

Do keep in mind that with air brakes, your trailer only has brakes with your deuce, but with electric brakes, it has brakes with your Ram 2500 and your deuce (once you've added a trailer brake controller).